washing machine socket

If the socket you're spurring from is on a ring circuit there's no need to fit a fused spur, you would only need a fused spur if you were spurring from a spur, in which case the fused connection unit would need to be before the socket being spurred from. Also there's no need for IP 66 rated socket just because it's below the sink. 2.5mm t/e is fine.

 

I personally don't like the idea of having a switched socket in the sink cupboard. I find it can soon get filled with junk making the switch harder to access.

I would opt for a 20A DP switch and fit an un-switched socket. I have seen people use FCUs but there will be no discrimination between the plug fuse and the FCU fuse.

 

And where would your DP switch be positioned Jit?, discrimination!, one will go wherever they are in the event of a problem, both will be rated at 13a, luck of the draw tbh.

 

I meant the 20a switch be located at above worktop near the double socket.

 

There are a few points.
1) Most washing machines are too heavy to be classed as portable so the 2kW rule applies.
2) Fuses need cooling so 13A plug should be in free air.
3) Under my sink very dry and there would be no need for any water resistant gear. So this depends on installation.
4) Washing machines did have a problem in if weights came lose it could cause a lot of damage so it was normal to have an easy accessible switch not part of washing machine. But modern ones have an auto system to switch off spin with out of balance stuff so may not be now required.
5) Question has to be is the double socket a spur already. It is common for kitchen fitters to move sockets so one has to test double socket first.
6) It's a new socket so must be RCD protected.
7) Even if 1.5mm was permitted I would still use 2.5mm.

It is very easy to assume a double socket as supplied as part of a ring final. But assuming with such a heavy load is not really good enough. Likely it is as simple as a switched FCU or if not already RCD protected a RCD FCU above counter feeding a socket below the counter. And likely the heater in the washing machine does not run for long enough to cause a problem. But I have seen this before. "Will it be OK to fit socket for washing machine" should have really been "Will it be OK to fit socket for washing dryer" with a dryer the heat is used for a lot longer so really it should have a dedicated supply. The dryer likely has more demand than an oven and we would always have a dedicated supply to an oven.

Clearly we all break the rules to some extent my dryer is I hope never run on full heat only 1kW setting and it does come off a ring final although not main ring final and I have had no problems but would not recommend some one else to do the same as I know really it should have a dedicated circuit.

 

I shared a flat with a girl and she always liked switching everything off after use, i.e washing machine and cooker.

I don' t know if this is a girl thing.

In my kitchen which is small I have wired it using a grid system. I have used 20A keyed (which uses a small key) switches to isolate the washing machine and fridge freezer. To many FCUs and switches dotted around the space spoil the look of a kitchen.