Washing machine under drainer

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by dax, Oct 13, 2016.

  1. dax

    dax New Member

    I would appreciate some advice about the strength of a laminate worktop. The plan is to fit a free-standing washing machine under the sink drainer. The sink is a standard steel sink, 900mm X 500mm. The sink will be over a 500mm cabinet and the cut-out for the drainer will be above the washing machine. Will the remaining 50mm of worktop at back and front be strong enough over the 640mm span above the washing machine or will it need additional support at the front edge. The back of the worktop can be simply supported with a batton fixed to the wall but the front edge is a little difficult. There is a window behind the sink so that there may be a temptation for someone, probably my wife, to kneel on the worktop edge whilst cleaning the window!
    Many thanks in advance.
    Dax
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
  2. JimAD

    JimAD New Member

    I've just done pretty much the same thing, a few decent size L brackets (one on each corner of the unsupported bit) and its solid.
    Wouldve thought the worktop edge that's supported by the unit would be ok to lean on, but I wouldn't on the drainer board bit.
     
  3. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I would say not. A steel sink is flexible. 50mm of worktop along the front is not, and a well placed knee in the middle of that section will likely crack it - thin sections crack easily - don't ask me how I know!. If this is the only option, and there is zero clearance under the worktop (as there isn't likely to be with the washing machine slid under) what you could do is get some thick wall square steel tubing perhaps 15 x 15 or even 15 x 25 and router a slot in the back of the thin section and screw it in. Then it will be strong enough. (carefully, because when routered it will be even thinner, until reinforced) I haven't used steel tube like this myself, but have used it surface mounted under a long unsupported worktop edge under a long breakfast bar and it made the edge uber-solid.

    Is it an end panel the other side of the washer or another unit?. If it's an end panel it makes life a hell of a lot easier if you make it removable, when trying to slide a tight fitting washing machine or dishwasher under a worktop and get all the pipes laying correctly. I put some projecting studs into the base of the end panel (screws with heads cut off) and corresponding holes in the floor to locate the bottom and then secure the end panel under the end of the worktop with removable screws through brackets. You can still put a little bead of silicon down the back joint for neatness and cut it out when needed.
     
  4. dax

    dax New Member

    Thanks for your replies. The washing machine is between two units, the 640mm space is to to accommodate a washing machine with two centimetres space on each side to make removal easier. I did think about a similar method to that which you, Rusty, suggested but using angle iron instead of square section. The thought was to screw one section of the angle-iron to the inside of the draining board cut-out and to screw the adjacent section to the underside of the weak part of the worktop. Your suggestion is better (but more difficult!) as the reinforcing is in the centre of the weak section. I can arrange for a 25mm space between the worktop and the washing machine so that a piece of hardwood (beech) 20mm X 50mm X 640mm could be fixed to the underside of the worktop and still leave 5mm clearance between the top of the washing machine and the underside of the hardwood. Ideally, the hardwood should be glued to the worktop. Unfortunately, it (the hardwood) could only be attached to the worktop and not carry on to rest on the side panels of the adjacent units. What I don't know is whether this would be strong enough and what type of adhesive to use to stick wood to the plastic-like backing material of the worktop. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Dax
     
  5. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    If you can notch the side units it would be best, but I think a 40mm worktop with a 20mm hardwood reinforcement should be OK. Glue AND screw it. If the worktop does try and flex the joint will be in shear, so screws are essential for rigidity.
     
  6. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    There is another way to keep the ridigity.

    Mark the outline of the mounting flange of the drainer in the worktop and rout a slot deep enough to allow this to fit inside. Mark where the slots are for the fixing clips and hole saw where these fall making sure the outer edge of the hole corresponds with the outer edge of the slot. Brush silicon in slot before fitting to seal the core.
     
  7. dax

    dax New Member

    Thanks to both Mr Rusty and CGN for your help.

    Mr Rusty;--- I did think about notching the sides but this could cause other problems as this is the area where the front cross-member is attached which is under the section of worktop supporting the sink. As the sides of the cabinet are only made of 18mm chipboard there isn't much material to notch! Possibly screws or dowels could be used instead of notching.

    CGN;--- Unfortunately, your excellent suggested method may not be as simple as described because, I believe that most of the area of the drainer is below the level of the top of the worktop which would entail extensive routing. I will check tomorrow to see if this is feasible. The holes for the fixing clips will also serve for ventilation to remove any stray moisture which finds its way under the board.

    If I were to go along the hardwood support route, are there any suggestions as to a suitable adhesive? I feel that the usual PVA based adhesive may not stick well to the underside of the worktop as it is covered with a plastic-like material. Perhaps something like Mega Strength Adhesive which is intended for sticking down tile backer boards would be suitable but messy.
    Dax
     
  8. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I wouldn't worry too much about adhesive as screws will give you the most strength. The joint will be in high shear - as the worktop tries to bend, it will try and stretch the batten underneath. It is the non-stretchiness of the batten that will make the structure rigid. Assuming 40mm worktop and 20mm batten, use either 40 or 50mm screws and depending on width of batten put either one or two in 50mm from the ends and every 100mm. Predrill the batten to stop it splitting and stagger the screws a bit. Using a bit of adhesive as well won't harm. PVA, Gorilla, Epoxy would all add something to the joint strength.
     
  9. dax

    dax New Member

    Thanks for your help and advice. I will fit a piece of hardwood and screw it as advised. It seems from what you, Mr Rusty, have told me that the hardwood will be acting as an additional, thick backing veneer on the worktop; the same principle as steel reinforcing bars encased in the underside of a concrete lintel.
    Dax
     

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