Which paint advice please

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Cliffandher, Nov 27, 2016.

  1. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    We have stripped 3 rooms ready for paint, wallpaper removed, old paint removed, sugar soaped, filled sanded, filled and sanded. We now have bare plaster walls and want to emulsion, any advice on which paint is good to use, which type of roller etc would be greatly appreciated. woodwork has been sanded, it appears they were painted with possibly a silk finish, it definitely was not a gloss, we wish to use a water based gloss for all woodwork so again any advice and would this type of gloss be ok over the sanded timber.
     
  2. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Any painter out there?
     
  3. AAASSSSSS-TRAAAAAAAA!
     
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  4. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Also advice re the ceilings. the ceilings are papered with an artex look paper and all solid and sound, can I use the same paint that I use on the walls on the ceiling, we are looking at white walls and ceilings.... mat finish.
     
  5. Really, any matt paint will actually do the job, and - yes - the same for the walls and ceilings.

    Pro painters (and even DIYers) will have their fav makes, but paints these days are almost universally decent. I like Wickes' paints for walls - I find they go on well, blend in even if you have to touch up, and generally has a nice feel to it.

    But there's also the usual brands - Dulux, Crown, Johnson, Leyland etc etc.

    Ok, walls. Make sure there are no traces of paste still on them. Any traces will likely reactivate and expand and leave a nasty textured finish in patches. Any concerns here, you can use Zinsser Gardz which will seal everything.

    Bare plaster - truly bare plaster should be given a 'mist' coat first, which is simply matt emulsion with added water - around 15%. This is applied to everything - all the walls while you are at it - and allowed to fully dry. You will then be able to tell if your wall is 'balanced' ('sucks' at the same rate, etc) and has no issues that could continue to bite you.

    Then you apply two coats of neat emulsion, obviously allowing each to dry fully before re-coating.

    If your wall is genuinely patchy - areas of new filler, bits of old paint, some old but bare plaster, I'm thinking that a coat of Gardz by be worth while anyway, just to seal the surface and make it all the 'same' as far as the paint is concerned.

    Roller? A short-pile will give a finer finish with less texture - probably what you want, as smooth as possible? If the ceiling has a soft paper texture - ie the texture edges are smooth and not sharp and gritty - then the same roller will probably do this too, but you might need a medium-pile roller (and you might prefer it for everything anyways).

    All the ceiling needs is a wipe-over to get any obvious muck off, and then a neat coat should go straight on. The only exceptions are nicotine stains, grease from a nearby kitchen, etc. That will need sugar-soaping and possibly even a stain block...

    Are you room walls gonna be white like the ceilings?

    As for woodwork, yes satinwood (a low sheen) has been the usual finish for a good decade now, and I personally prefer it to high gloss. But, that's very much a personal thing - you put on what you like!

    You might find, tho', that water-based 'gloss' is tricky to apply and in any case is unlikely to be as shiny as oil-based paints. However, the HUGE plus with water-based is that it remains brilliant white, whereas oils do tend to yellow over time.

    I can't recommend any water based glosses as I haven't used them.

    But hopefully Astra will be along shortly.

    (But don't tell him I called him 'shorty')
     
  6. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Cheers DA, yes walls are patchy, well they are now I have been in there with filler:). looking at these I assume it will be best to use gardz...
    If I use Gardz I assume I dont mist coat just Gardz then straight on with the chosen emulsion?
     

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  7. Yes, if you Gardz, then chust apply a neat coat afterwards of emulsion - and then another when it's dry.

    Tbh, I think I'd personally just try the emulsion straight off - but it's quite common for filled patches to swell slightly with the water in the paint and leave a noticeable ridge along the shape. If this happens, then it'll need a gentle sanding down - 180 grit on a flat block, and then recoat.

    But, Gardz might make sense - it's your call.

    Certainly if there's any trace of paste, or shiny paint (old 'silk') I think it would be worth it.
     
  8. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Thanks DA for input, its a pity the internet cannot do the physical part.:D
     
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  9. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Sounds like you have prepared well, you may not require Gardz but as DA said it's your call, if not mist coat the walls with white vinyl matt emulsion and when dry apply a second coat to white the walls out, this will provide a good even base for your chosen finished colour, personally I use mainly Dulux Trade Emulsions using a fine or medium pile Purdy roller. water based gloss can be awkward to get the hang off with regard to a great finish due to differing application methods as opposed to oil based, however Crown FastFlow gloss and undercoat has received very good reviews as it flows our exceedingly well my view is the jury's still out, it is a white paint not brilliant white apparently it contains a small amount of oil to improve the flow and brushes can still be washed out using soap and water, the gloss finish is the best I've seen for a predominately water based paint. Just decorated my own hall woodwork using FastFlow applied with Purdy Monarch Elite synthetic bristle brushes, you would be best advised to invest in a boxed set 1", 1.5", 2" at around £25.
     
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  10. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Just a thought, if I tried emulsion straight off could I use a cheap trade mist coat then say use a dulux or better quality top coat or should I stick to using one brand for both mist and seconds?
     
  11. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Yes, no problem, soon have you working on new builds with comments like that! :D;)
     
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  12. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    Sorry posted before I read this one. we have been overseas for last 16 years so a bit uncertain which paints are which... I was looking at Matt for walls and ceiling but you say vinyl matt, can you explain difference.. The rooms I am currently doing are bedrooms but living, kitchen and bathrooms are all to be done by Feb 2017 as well as new bathroom and kitchen....:(
     
  13. Cliffandher

    Cliffandher Member

    I worked a few years back with a decorator overseas on new builds, everything was sprayed, ceilings walls doors the lot then layed off with a roller. ... :Dseemed a lot easier but horses for courses
     
  14. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Yes, non vinyl obviously contains no vinyl in its make up and is also known as a contract matt, supercover etc it will wash off if wiped over with a sponge, damp cloth, so is not very easy to wipe of any marks without damaging the paint surface whereas a vinyl paint can be wiped clean, then Dulux Diamond is 10x tougher than ordinary vinyl paint and can be scrubbed clean without any detrimental to the original finish, the retail version is on offer from Wickes this is called 'Dulux Endurance' at buy 3 for the price of 2 which is a very good deal.
     
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  15. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    You can check out the Dulux paint range at there website. Perhaps use Eggshell paint for the bathroom as it is tolerant to the effect of high humidity and steam.
     
    Cliffandher likes this.
  16. But bear in mind that 'eggshell' on walls looks hellish... :)
     
  17. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    OOOOhhhhhhhh! you little devil you!

    Diamond Eggshell is fine.
     

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