Whirlpool cooker hood

The fuse in the plug is not okay. Change it and it should work.

 

Did the plug have a 13amp fuse?  (should be 3 or 5)   If so it's likely that a section of pcb has been "blown away"!

 

After the flash -  was there a smell of fish (fish vapours) in the immediate vicinity of the cooker hood Beardy?

 

Probably won't find any spares, easier and quicker (often cheaper too) to get a new one.

 

What's the circuit board in that hood Sen? surely its just L + N + E into a term block, and from there to motor and light obviously via switch/es on t'front of hood, but no electronic circuitry and stuff?

 

No electronics as you say JP but many of them have a small pcb which the switch is attaced to, mains is fed to the pcb which has tracks leading to the switch connections.

 

Oh right see what you mean Sen - definitely a weak point - but then again if people fit 13 Amp fuses instead of 3/5 Amp then in the event of a short then I can see the PCB tracks being the effective fusible link instead of the proper rated fuse Cheers Sen.

 

Beardy, if you're any good with a soldering iron jou can bridge out the damaged tracks with wire links.  It's not difficult although it does come easier to me than some people being an ex t/v engineer, bridging out damaged pcb tracks was a very regular type of job in t/v servicing. That was when things were built to be repaired of course, before the throw-away age arrived!

 

All sorted then -  have a good evening Beardy..

 

Get yourself a soldering iron

 

I had a fizzed out track on my boiler PCB Lec - a quick deft soldering action cured the problem completely..saved what 80 or more sovs as I didn't have to buy a new PCB..

 

Repaired some decorative EM lights the other week myself.

 

Usualy starts as a dry joint JP, seen loads of that type of fault in electronic equipment. In boilers i've usualy found it's water leakage that causes it.

 

That's a wet dry joint sen.

 

You any good at simple electronic design seneca ?

 

Never had much experience with design Lokks, fault finding and repair was my thing.

 

Had exactly this fault with a hood a few weeks back. And the same cause too - a 13A fuse fitted. What the 'ell goes on inside a bulb when it blows to cause such a surge?!

As Sen says, a very easy fix if you can use a soldering iron - I used a sleeved wire and connected it to the existing solder joints at each end of the damaged track, rather than try and solder to the remaining ends of the burnt (vapourised!) thin tracks themselves.

Clear out all the debris from the 'pop' - you'll likely find tiny molten beads in there - and also cut away the useless ends of the burnt tracks if they are loose from the PCB.

Beardy, if you can't do this yourself, I bet you know someone who can - ask around your mates and almost certainly there will be one who has a soldering iron and knows how to use it...

I bet a switch - if you can find one - will be silly money, whereas the repair is effectively zero cost.

Just make sure the fellow is competent - check the job afterwards and post a piccy on here if you can.