Hi there. i'm looking for some advice on adding a fan heater in our bathroom, as there are no (well ideal) power sources available, apart from spurring off the immersion heater, and there is no access to the loft and no sockets nearby to spur off without doing a long run of cable round the houses. So, whats left is the immersion heater circuit. As this is a radial circuit with 2.5mm T&E to a 16 amp mcb. it is not setup for the combined load. So i'm looking for a way round this, would it be viable to configure it so one can only be switched on at a time? This is the setup below:
Welcome to the world of the electrician! The only proper way of doing this is a new 16A radial circuit. If it means running a cable round a difficult route then that unfortunately is what you need to do. You cannot spur a load of 2kW off an immersion heater circuit, nor can you spur it off any other circuits. Heating loads of 2kW or more should be on a separate dedicated circuit.
Unfortunately we've got no central heating so we rely on electric for hot water. I had thought it might be possible to use like a changeover switch in the airing cupboard so that whenever the fan is on, the immersion is off. But I can see that as being a big nono. Oh well
Interesting question. If a either/or switch was used ...each item DHW/heater would at any point in use be on a "dedicated circuit". I cannot see any regulation which covers/prohibits this setup(off top of head) Not ideal but perfectly safe. Some cookers have a selection switch system which allows only predetermined rings to be used in unison hence limiting the load. RS
Thats what I thought. So if it's safe to do so, it's just a question of finding a suitable switch. How about this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCL-IC220...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item2a44f1b437
You know what I think I would agree that using something like a changeover switch could comply. After all it is serving the purpose. You might want to supplement the installation with information that the switch should not be removed and that it is fed from one circuit etc.
I would check the specification if you can find it. "2-pole" sounds like the switch only makes live(2 x live) and does not switch neutral! (If it matters at all!) Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Doesn't he need some kind of DPDT switch ( Double Pole Double Throw)? Obviously it will need to be 230VAC rated.
Ive just found this, this is without the "OFF" position, so its either one of the two. http://www.parkelect.co.uk/kn-2-pol...product_feed&gclid=CKnLs6OgzcICFSXKtAoduFMA6g