evening, I would be grateful of opinions on this job - opening up a doorway. Doesn't look right to me, but i am not a builder. Basically there is no cement between the lintel and the block work which doesnt look like its sat square. Builder is planning on chipping bits of bricks between the lintel and block work above (you can see there are some in already) and then using a mortar to infill. The thing is, i measured that if he put the lintel a course lower it would have been about right for the bricks to go on top!
Should be sat on proper padstones, not engineering bricks. Those strongboys should be in further than what they are.
thanks Kiab. What about the fact of breaking bits of bricks to go on top of the lintel and block work above mate?
If the engineering bricks are solid they will be fine, as for filling the gap, he should use creasing tiles cut to size instead of bits of brick and bed them in properly. Creasing tiles.
If the builder dropped the lintel another course, you'd still end up with the same sort of gap to be filled in (think about it,, once he's put another row of bricks on top) Also I'm assuming a door frame is going in to the space?? If it's dropped, there might not be room to put a full height door in.
BMC, we call the red engineering bricks class B's. At least that's what I ask for when I have occasionally needed them.
They are engineering bricks. They are fine. Fill above lintel with semi-dry strong mix of cement mortar. Wedge pieces of slate between brick pad and lintel. (Slate because it doesn't crush - unlike clay tiles) Also, nice to see min. 150mm bearing each end.
Trust in your builder as the advise on this post is way too diverse, Construction Project Manager has answered fully. The standard of work shown in your photo looks to be of a high standard but I would agree with KIAB re the positioning of the strong boys.
Another fine example why Strongboys should be sold and hired with instructions of correct use and I bet the incorrect pin has caught the builders arm a few times?
Mr Progress, if you want instructions then there should be a full temporary works design by a competent person (qualifications?, experience? insurance?) with design risk management, risk assessment and method statement for the installation plus design co-ordination for the permanent works.
Strongboys are NOT designed to be used, as in that photo, THEY should be fully inserted to their full depth of the blade, otherwise they canot support their designed loading. And using a socket extension bar inplace of a pin, is very naughty.
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