Hi Guys Without going over all historic threads...what is the current situation of painting over recently glossed internal doors with a new undercoat and topcoat...to prevent yellowing. I am looking for a satinwood look finish. I know that removal of VOC has caused problems recently 2010 in the oil based products. Anyone got latest info. All input appreciated cheers
Hi RS. I can thoroughly recommend below http://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/buy/woodstains/primers-preservers/sikkens-rubbol-bl-satura/1317 http://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-1-2-3-primer-sealer-1ltr/10135 The combination of the above I can thoroughly vouch for - bonus no paint smell etc and extremely fast drying with an excellent finish. Whatever you do use a synthetic brush, and you can foam mini roll doors etc if flat panel and stuff. I cant understand why Screwfix don't stock the Sikkens range of paints (or at least some of them) perhaps Screwfix Pete can elucidate with respect to this matter.
Thanks JP Glad you have recent and practical experience of these products. Also glad you picked up on "recently glossed"...as I was concerned that a standard water based paint might react with the gassing off of the new gloss. Do you prefer bulls eye 123 to the sikkens rubbol BL primer ? Any need to dampen surfaces before starting to paint ? cheers
Afternoon RS. I have never tried the Sikkens BL primer but have used the 123 with absolutely top notch results - it stopped resinous bleed through etc in its tracks. With ref to gassing off - tbqh I cannot really answer that question as have never come across that particular phenomenon m8. My scenario was as follows. Bare wood new doors with plenty of knots - I sanded down with 120 I think, and laid on two coats of the 123 water based. Then on top of that I laid on two coats of the BL Satura, and I am well happy with the end result. Also ditto with already glossed doors. Some people say dampen before laying on the Satura, but I didn't and everything was ok RS. All I can say is that the drying time of the respective coats is very rapid indeed and the no noxious vapours really are bonus..oil based paints (except in some circumstances) are largely old hat now..no more noxious paint fumes.
Thanks for your help JP. The Lady of the House (wife) will be happy about the no fumes side. Bit allergic. cheers
Hi JP (and guys) What's the recommendation for "brill white" matt emulsion for ceiling....and silk for walls. Prefer to use 2 good quality coats that stay whiter for longer. cheers
JP, hate to pi** on your technique M8 but 123 is not at all recommended for use for knotting, BIN is the one to use.
After re-evaluating my post - it seems I have recommended the correct primer within RS's op parameters. Thanks Astra, and av a good day m8,
After re evaluating your reply - it seems you have recommended the wrong primer within the Zinsser Co, Inc 'Prime with Zinsser Guide' under the heading Recommended Applications, sub heading Knots and Sap: BIN E*, 123 NR, Cover Stain NR. E* = Excellent NR = Not Recommended Thanks JP, av a good day tomoz!
Hi JP Been using zinsser BL primer on doors. Easy flow, no smell no wet edge problems fast application synthetic brush fast drying good opacity satin finish when dry Will be top coating with satura BL this week. will update you as and when. cheers RS
lol............sorry meant sikkens BL primer (and sikkens BL satura to finish off.) I was looking at a can of zinsser Perma White on the floor next to me, to be used on rads. RS
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