Use 1700 grade lining paper (nice and thick)and cross line it, apply a couple of coats of vinyl matt to the colour of your laminate then finish with 3 coats of coats of Ronseal Diamond Hard varnish. You won't tell the difference.
Hmm. Timber battens / forms. Hope the laminate bend radius is tight enough. Warm it up a little with a hairdryer first. Cut sheets to size and check fit. PVA seal walls with dilute mix. PVA sheet and walls. Helps if you can 'fluff the glue up a little'. Stick together once almost dry and get a load of mates to hold in place for a bit. If it is **** simply boil a kettle for a while and it will all come peeling off.
The problem is, It's a 100 year old plus flat. The space to the back has been a mess all of the 20 years i've been there. The walls are weird and wonderful shapes. Lining paper just isn't an option. I've presumed, (obviously wrongly judging by the feedback on her) that i'd be able to throw the laminate up hide a multitude of sins, job done. The laminate is bought so i'm not throwing £200 in the skip just yet.
You will be throwing it in the skip later plus the cost of the glue and the time you have wasted. It just isn't going to work.
Ah, crack on. Nothing to lose now. Just post some pics or let us know how it goes. We all can learn something new, even us oldies. It will not be easy though and just steer clear of the contact adhesive. I would try PVA and if that does not work NoNails will.
The only way I could think it could work is to bond the laminate to some thin ply and then fix the whole lot to the wall with something like gorilla glue. However, you are going to have to brace the boards on to the wall. Would i entertain this no way. I would have gone down the respatex or similar route.
an unfortunately ill conceived notion to apply high end cabinet work to a brick .... house forget the curved corners and you can still batten out the walls and go for angled corners. laying on the laminate itself or bonded to a sheet, cut in sections as you go. have a handy trimmer standing by and it will all go in nicely. are there power sockets and air vents to think about? otherwise flog the laminate and get in a plasterer.
And of course to make it even harder the laminate is 10 ft by 4ft! Doing one of these on the horizontal would be a mammoth effort needing several guys to position it and then do the rollering and a final person to hold the swear box
You might, just might get away with using instastick to stick laminate to a rough wall, which is a gun able expanding foam adhesive and will take up uneveness and give you a little adjustment time, (I've used it for sheet material but not for laminate) but in all honesty, I think this project is doomed the way you are planning it. If the laminate is flexible, it's going to flex all over the place and look awful. If it is flat and brittle, you will never shape it over the uneven surface and make decent joints and it will look awful. . Lining paper is forgiving, can be cut and trimmed. If it won't take lining paper it surely isn't going to take 0.8mm laminate. My thoughts: Look at a way of getting some money back on the laminate - ebay? what exactly is it? Can you not get a refund/credit note from wherever you got it? Then go with a plan B. If it's a utility, then I would perhaps tile the bottom using small rustic tiles that can be fitted to some extent around uneveness and paint the top, or just paint it all, or perhaps think about a combination of panelling and paint - lot's of ideas for alternatives. If it's too rough, have it reskimmed.
The only thing that would sort this is a stick of dynamite. You realy need to see the space to see what i'm on about.
Yes it would take lining paper but it would look a mess. I got it from eBay so credit note/refund out the window. Platerer has repaired wall as after the removal of old cabinets/bad old plaster.
You have to work with what you've got. If its an uneven "rustic" room, why not think about half-panelling. You could scribe (i.e. shape) battens to the lower half of the wall and fix upright narrow boards, which would curve around the angles quite nicely. A scribed batten at the top of the boards would take up any uneveness in the underlying wall. The top of the room you could smooth/fill as best you can and then paint, leaving the uneveness on display. Uneven doesn't have to look bad - work with it. This sort of thing. https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/555350197772233057/