French Doors Lintel

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Steve_K, Sep 2, 2016.

  1. Steve_K

    Steve_K New Member

    I've fit new french doors, uPVC ones. when i removed the old timber frame patio doors i noticed that there didn't appear to be a lintel on the outer brick wall, only a concrete one on the inner block wall.

    I can see that the brick work above the doors sags a bit in the middle, it was like this before but is something that i want to put right as part of the renovation.

    Can you look at these pictures and suggest whether the concrete lintel linked will be adequate to support the weight of the above outer brickwork and upstairs bedroom window. The roof / joists seem to be supported by the inner block wall structure so no load from that.

    [​IMG]
    before, you can just see the brickwork in the middle gapping

    [​IMG]
    just a layer of concrete and DPC between the bricks
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Concrete Lintel : http://www.diy.com/departments/expa...-concrete-lintel-l2100mm-w100mm/150793_BQ.prd

    Thanks
     
  2. PaulBlackpool

    PaulBlackpool Screwfix Select

    What is that which the outer leaf is half sitting on. I am only guessing but is it a Catnic lintel? Is there any metal between the inner and outer leaf?
    I think there must be something there otherwise you have been very lucky!
    The weight of the roof is transmitted to wall plates fitted to the inner leaf.
     
  3. Steve_K

    Steve_K New Member

    It's just a layer of cement, no catnic between the inner and out leaf...
     
  4. PaulBlackpool

    PaulBlackpool Screwfix Select

    Well I had two UVPC windows and one UVPC door fitted at the back of my house all just under 3 feet wide and as the inner leaf had wooden lintels and the outer were just built on top of the frames I put concrete lintels in before removing the old windows and door. In the event no bricks fell down. In your case with a patio door you have been very lucky, but no bricks will fall down now you have got the doors in. Has your frame got aluminium reinforcings in at the sides and top? If so job done and leave well alone.
    You say the brickwork sags a little but if there are no loose mortar joints and the door is secure then I would leave it.
    If there are some loose joints just point it.

    PS I hope you were wearing a hard hat.:)
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2016
  5. yorkyguy

    yorkyguy Active Member

    Hello all,
    Only for advice,
    I installed two 'up and over' garage doors with a pitched gable in stone with blockwork inner above years ago with a rolled steel angle above on each leaf (150x150 as I recall) over a central pier which has never shifted. Your pics look as though the outer wall sits on the horizontal of an L profile with the upstand of the steel rising up in the cavity. Am right? as PB says, a Catnik or boot lintel would have reinforcing/connecting metal work between. I am only a DIYer but I agree with PB and check the steels, point up and leave well alone.
    B
     
  6. PaulBlackpool

    PaulBlackpool Screwfix Select

    Hi Brian
    But the OP says there is nothing on the bricks but mortar.
    What you suggest might be better from an appearance point of view but surely a concrete or a Catnic lintel would have been much cheaper than putting steels within the cavity. It is only a patio door width.
     
  7. yorkyguy

    yorkyguy Active Member

    Hi Paul,

    Yes buts what's that horizontal 'line' under the outer under brick course? looks a bit straight and regular with a DPC hanging down. Is it a bit true for compo? mmmmm? I understand what you say but my steel went in on construction. Even if the worst happened and the bricks obeyed Mr Newton, the worst scenario would a triangular brick collapse cos of the bonding but not ideal.
     

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