I thought we were talking to a complete newbie DIYer on how to tart up a door, and now he's talking about routing out his own from scratch! Cooooooool
Yup - I wonder if he realises just what a long task it'll be? Cut all doors to exact size. Route out the desired profile. Mark out and drill hinge holes. Ditto for handles. And sand sand sand sand sand sand sand sand sand sand and prime and paint... DUST MASK! MDF dust is not nice.
A lot of work & expense, better off doing a bit more searching for kitchen door blanks,replacement kitchen doors, etc.
But more ultimate satisfaction... Hey, Wau - consider using a 'V' router bit as well to run some vertical V-grooves down your central panel
I like that effect too, its quite easy to do with a router and a level. Hard to go wrong if you run the router base along a clamped down level, although it would be much easier with a router table. You can make a T&G effect out of solid panels with a few different bits too, so you have complete choice of how it will look. Here's an example, I made this to cover a window in my garage door:
Those look really sweet,and something I had seen in in some kitchen showrooms and thought to myself- oh wow those look cool Yeah it's not going to be fast 1 day job because there's so much more to making stuff than just cutting timber to lengths which takes the least time , I have learned it very well from past doing all kind of carpentry work,but at least I can make the stuff to my spec and liking.
And some jigs, patience and luck - one slight slip or if it is out of alignment and its ruined. Number of times been doing "v" grooving or fluting and lost concentration or the lead had caught and snagged the cut. Trend make a "6 in 1" base that you can use for v grooving but I found it too cumbersome and not accurate although the varijig rail and base is much better
Table saw better than a circular saw, Done that more than once. Some years ago I spent a few days finishing a table, it had had about six coats or so, did final coat, came back after a bit to eat, to find p ussy had got through the narrowest gap of open window & had walked all over the table. And I reckon a table saw would be better than a circular saw. The varijig rail is excellent got a couple of them 24" & 50", so handy.
The table saw is the simplest option but highest up front cost. It is one of the options behind pocket holes, biscuits / domino's and less hastle than using the specialist door bits. I normally use the table saw to cut a groove in the centre of the uncut timber to accommodate the centre boards, then cut the rails and styles. Then use the table saw to cut tenons to fit the groove. Also use it to "fake" raised panels by mounting a second board with chamfered edges
Ever watched New Yankee Workshop, Norm cut a raised panel by setting saw blade to a angle & clamping panel vertical, it's so quick to knock out panels, do the four cuts first for all panels, then set up saw for angle cut & then do all all panels Not the right video, but still almost the same way.
Seen quite a few of the years, good guy knows his stuff. I do something similar but on mine after cutting the chamfered edges, I run them through again to cut the chamfer square so it fits into the rebate better. New Yankee workshop, sort of lost its way with the range of equipment he had at the end especially the 1m wide belt sander. Something you would find hard to find even in dedicated workshops let alone for the handyman. I get a digital version of this old house magazine on subscription which is quite interesting - "Norm" and Tom De Silva have articles which are quite interesting
You can use a raised panel, bevel panel router cutter,& their diameter can be around 75mm,& they needs to be used in conjunction with a router table. Using table saw is easier, plus you can use a router cutter with a bearing around the raised panel to add more detail/design to the panel.