Glue for worktop join

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Oldhat, Dec 28, 2016.

  1. Oldhat

    Oldhat New Member

    Hi, im a long time reader od these forums, ive had a look but my questions specific.
    I'll be fitting my worktop soon, its a solid oak 26mm worktop in an 'L' shape butted to each other. Worktop bolts etc sorted im just looking at what glue to use at the join.
    Instructions say PVA on the top and bottom edge.
    I've got loads of the cheap everbuild contractors PVA left over for using as a sealer?
    Ive also got some of the gorilla wood glue aswell? Any of them suitable...
    Or should i go buy myself some exterior PVA?
    Thanks
    For the help
     
  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I would use the gorilla glue but when it foams up do not try and remove it when it's wet, wait till it is dry and cut it off with a craft knife.
     
  3. Bazza-spark

    Bazza-spark Screwfix Select

    Depending on what colour your worktops are you can use http://www.colorfill.co.uk/ which will match your worktop and help disguise the joint.

    Kind regards
     
  4. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    It depends on how messy you are ...

    If you are quite good at gluing without getting stuff on the work surface you may want to try the epoxy resin designed for oak and teak

    Otherwise something like Titebond III which is water resistant but can be cleaned off with water before it sets should work well.
     
  5. Oldhat

    Oldhat New Member

    Thanks for the replies, does the strength of the glue matter as its solid wood, The mitre glues and colour fill is quite strong, any issues with the expanding wood and quick set times?
     
  6. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Titebond III has useable working time of 30m mins much life Gorilla and a final cure of 24 hours. The higher strength glues are more to counter the oiliness of the timber both Gorilla and Titebond adhere to a lot of surfaces whilst the cheaper PVA glues have more of a problem.

    Hopefully your joints will be tight and you won't need the colour fill.

    If the top is sealed with a good quality product and the temperature is fairly constant in the kitchen you shouldn't have much movement
     
  7. Oldhat

    Oldhat New Member

    Thanks, thats a great help. Would you recommend oiling the joints prior to gluing or leaving the ends untreated and letting the glue seal from water? Not sure how the glue takes to been ontop of danish oil
     
  8. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Its better to glue and then oil, just in case you need to smooth out any imperfections with a light sand.

    A lot of people on here rate Osmo products quite highly for sealing timber
     
  9. Oldhat

    Oldhat New Member

    Thanks for that, ill have a look at osmo, is that the osmo top oil or osmo polyx
     
  10. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Stixall! :D:D
     
  11. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    As they are solid oak (I'm assuming made up from staves glued together) Don't forget to give them a coat of oil underneath before final assembly. (yes the underside of the worktops need oiling)
     
  12. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Gorilla Wood Glue does not foam - it is a white PVA. Should be totally suitable for this requirement though.
     
  13. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

    Biscuits and bolts and it's not going anywhere either way. Just keep the tops well oiled.
     
  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Sorry, I thought it was a PU glue.
     
  15. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I was right, it is a PU glue.
     
  16. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    The do both a white glue (PVA) and a PU glue, both called Gorilla Glue
     
  17. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

  18. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Correct - the OP referred to Gorilla Wood Glue as did I.

    I actually find it better that some of the other PVA glues.
     
  19. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I use titebond PVA a lot and it is excellent but I have no idea about it's effectivness in wet areas as PVA re-activates in the presence of water whereas PU cures through water
     
  20. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Looking back you both did but as I wouldn't use PVA in this circumstance and as I only knew Gorilla Glue as a PU glue I kind of skimmed over that hence my original apology and later rebuttal.
     

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