Used Log Cabin

Discussion in 'Landscaping and Outdoors' started by snappyfish, Apr 23, 2017.

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  1. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Dam give us a clue..
     
  2. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    So have been cutting away with the angle grinder, damn frustrating work knowing that I really should have probably gone timber frame or at least had the base made to correct size. :mad:

    This is before

    http://imgur.com/5q9XpJn

    This is after

    http://imgur.com/qitTwyF

    ... but this is after hosing down the side of the cabin and washing with a wet sponge also to remove brick dust, so a fair bit of water running down the side of the cabin.

    http://imgur.com/LTSIqo2

    I think I'm going to have to seal the top and bottom of bearers with some kind of cleaner flexible sealant, any ideas? o_O
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I wouldn't have sat timber frame direct on concrete base.
     
  4. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Yes, you're right, I know this know. What I can understand is why so many company's recommend concrete base. Plenty of them also recommend a larger base by 100mm

    So anything I can do with regards to sealing those gaps. What sealant would be best?
     
  5. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Sikkaflex EBT+ all weather?
     
  6. Nice cabin, Snappy - very envious.

    This 'base' issue must be very frustrating. What to do now?

    I dunno. But I think I would be reluctant to try and 'seal' around the perimeter as I'd want a flow of air passing under there to keep the timbers dry.

    As KIAB points out, the ideal scenario would be to have your cabin sitting on raised and DPC'd blocks or pillars. Ie - no rising damp, all rain falls off and can't get up to the bottom timbers, under area fully ventilated and dry. And your concrete slab could have stayed as it was (although splash-back ain't ideal in any case, so prob best to have done the cutting).

    Agonising question - is there any chance at all you'd be prepared to lift/prop up reassemble the cabin?

    If not, then I think what I would do is to wait until it's bone dry, saturate the underside of your cabin with Everbuild Lumberjack and then repeat this every couple of years.

    I don't think I'd seal that gap off.

    Perhaps a compromise would be to install vents - perhaps some flat ducting - going under there, perhaps two along each side, and then seal the rest? The ducts would need deflectors to stop rain getting in to them, and have insect screens too.

    But definitely saturate the under timbers with Lumberjack or similar.

    But I'm guessing at the best solution here.
     
  7. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Thanks for the reply.

    The gap between the top of bearers and the first log should not be there anyway so don't want water running down the wall into that gap, the gap between concrete and lower bearers is because of concrete not being dead level.

    I will be putting insulation under floor also, 30mm to leave roughly 20mm gap so not sure how much air will get in from vents?

    I have a dpm in concrete so rising damp should be minimal? Surely my best option giving what I have there is to keep s much water out with sealing?
     
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Oh how glad I am I make a timber sub-frame for my cabin!!! Not only does it lift the whole shebang off the ground and let air circulate, its also perfectly flat and level :p

    Back to concrete catastrophes...I think a combination is in order, at least this is what I'd do:
    - seal up those gaps somehow to prevent water from getting in. Why do you have a gap between bearer and first log? Certainly put some sealant between bearer and cabin, that can't do any harm. Probably too put some sealant between bearer and concrete base (see below) as it will stop some water seeping in. I'd treat the bearers with preservative too, per DA's comments.
    - since you won't completely prevent water getting in/under there, the bigger issue is how its going to dry out. Vents through the bearers is needed, can't think of any other way to get air circulating. Even lots of small holes would be fine, can't think of ducting that would be suitable.

    Good that you put DPM under the slab, but DPM under the bearers would have been good too.

    What a ball ache :mad:
     
    snappyfish likes this.
  9. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    And after the Houston ball ache I have nothing to worry about just a few drips!

    Is it worth painting the remaining concrete lip and sides in some type of liquid rubber? Then pea shingle around edges?
     
  10. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I guess the concrete lip would benefit from some liquid rubber (damp proofing stuff?) to seal it, as it'll be quite porous. Do it once its dry. And pea shingle for sure, will help stop splash back which should now be vastly reduced from cutting back the concrete.

    Could you liquid rubber up the bearers a bit too, provide a complete seal? You'd need some way for damp to get out though e.g. holes through bearers.
     
    snappyfish likes this.
  11. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    I think there are some solutions to this, lifting it as in other thread here.

    Although I'm sure the cabin installers bolted bearers to concrete slab, will need to check that, if they have bolted bearers I have no way of listing I guess with dismantling the damn lot :eek:

    If it's possible for me to lift whats best to use? a timber frame? Paving slabs? I'm guessing slabs are holding up my bearers water getting on the existing concrete slab won't crawl up paving slabs?

    It's funny as when I knew the cabin was being delivered in July I assumed id be in there relaxing staring out the window watching the end of summer sunsets.. pfft how wrong was I.
     
  12. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Not your fault, but idiots who installed it.

    could use plastic fence post to sit shack on as they don't rot, or soak up water,cheaper option concrete lintel 100x65mm x whatever length needed, & lay a strip of dpc on lintel to stop moisture rising into timber.
     
    snappyfish likes this.
  13. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Just found out my base is bolted to concrete. :(
     
  14. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Oh that's carp, was it Skinners Sheds that installed it? Instructions just say to screw bearers together nothing about securing bearers to the concrete base. But I guess unless bearers are secured to the concrete it might move but its bloomin heavy.

    What to do now, you're stuck with the bearers as is and bottom logs will be screwed to them.

    :mad::mad::mad:
     
  15. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    No wasn't skinners, I missed skinners available installation appointments but it was another cabin company and I seen they sell LV cabins, told them I had a concrete base and which cabin I'd ordered.

    I messaged them this morning and said I'm thinking of lifting cabin to add additional bearers to allow air flow, they then told me it's bolted and not to lift as it won't help settlement and that the base is designed not to allow air flow as the current bearers create a ring. :rolleyes:

    What a nightmare I've yet to mention the current base situation creates a swimming pool effect :mad:
     
  16. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I wonder if you might think about taking the lot down and rebuilding.
     
  17. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Probably the best option.:)
     
  18. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    What a load of BS!:eek::D
     
  19. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Crossed my mind plenty of times. I'm thinking of leaving it until early next year. Leaving out insulation for now as nothing in floor and roof currently. Want electrics for winter though.. ah damn this is time-consuming and complicated.
     
  20. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    The most time consuming bit would be the roof with 100 odd T&G roof panels to ease off and renail in place. The walls just unlock and if numbered, would be quite quick and easy to take apart and rebuild. I'd be tempted to get the electrics infra in place but wait until the spring to rebuild then finish off properly with decent base, insulation roof and floor and electrics.
     

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