Will these both suit what I need? https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb673csw-165mm-plunge-saw-230-240v/9257j https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolutio...e-bevel-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-240v/60839 I'll see if black Friday throws anything up. What fittings should I use for the wall units? They will be going into internal plasterboard walls, and external plasterboarded walls, where the plasterboard has been dot and dabbed on. I've also got a small island (2 x 600mm pan drawer units, to have a 900mm worktop above), presumably if I fit the floor first I can just screw the feet of the legs into the wooden floor to hold it in place? We're having an undercounter freezer, can I run plinth straight across the front of it or do I need to vent it somehow? I think I've seen it vented in a friends house. Advice noted ref floor being level, I'll check that out once the old floor is up. It is concrete throughout. My wife is only 5' tall, so given that I'm going to have to cut the plinths anyway I'm thinking that I'll keep the legs fairly short.
I'm mostly Bosch here,but do have a bit of Hitachi & a odd Makita, so no experience of the Evolution, but it gets good reviews, as for Titan, wouldn't touch it myself, no spares available. But do look out for the Bosch GCM800SJ 216mm sliding mitre saw, last year Black Friday, it was down to about £145, well worth the extra £45 over your budget. Same with the track saw might see some good bargains.
You could even find a bargain on Ebay,my Bosch GCM 8 SJL came off Ebay at £120 & my other mitre saw a Bosch GCM8SJ came off Freecycle. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pr-Owned...173598?hash=item3f8c52c25e:g:dGUAAOSw-wJaDXqo
Thanks for all the advice, its great. I'll keep the questions coming..... One of the side runs goes: Base: 110mm gap to door End panel - 18mm Unit - 500mm Under counter freezer - 600mm End panel - 18mm Unit - 600mm End panel - 18mm L shape corner unit - 900 Wall: 110mm gap to door End panel - 18mm Unit - 500mm unit - 600mm End panel - 18mm Extractor - 600mm End panel - 18mm Unit - 900mm So it all lines up, but the end wall unit is right up against the wall. I understand that ideally you want a fill there, and I've got the space to put another end panel (or plinth etc) in there, but then it will be 18mm out from the bottom. I could add another end panel in the bottom run to compensate, to have double end panels after the corner unit. Or I could leave it 18mm out of line and hope no one notices. What would you recommend?
no-one notices an extra 18mm, well nearly no-one seriously, do what looks right, rather than what might be technically correct. My kitchen wall leans back by 30mm (either that or my cooker full height unit leans forward along with everything else) - no-one notices because I've hidden the gap.
could you change the 500 units to a 450 and where the corner unit is down the bottom you would have a 50mm fillet piece in the corner on the wall? if im getting it right.
Either that or you can do end panels too, you'll just need to cut them twice. I think it's worth it, rather cut them two times than have a brand new floor damaged. I'd never do the floor first... You'll definitely need a plunge saw, I've never had a cheap one so can't tell you nothing about Titan. I have Festool, could recommend, but it has no sense to spend such a money if you need it on one job only. Titan should do a job. Evolution is very good mitre saw but you won't need it for a kitchen, it'd be just wasting of the money. Don't buy it if you don't need it for something else. Re freezer: follow the instructions of the manufacturer. Re wall units: https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-duopower-wall-plugs-6-x-30mm-100-pack/1030p
I have a Titan plunge saw which i use with a Triton multi tooth blade and Makita guide rails. It's acceptable for what i need and although the quality of cut is only marginally better than my Milwaukee 18v saw (run along a straight edge) - but that's pretty good, the dust collection is heaps better because the 18v doesn't have any! Peter Millard's video does sum it up quite well. I don't doubt the Festool fans for a second however I couldn't justify the additional cost for something that isn't used regularly every day. Who knows? I may come to regret my choice later on but it's serving me perfectly at the moment.
Look at the Freud blades, they give a lovely clean cut. https://www.tooled-up.com/freud-lcl6m-trim-circular-saw-blade/prod/196855/
Thanks again for the advice. I've no option to swap the 500mm wall unit to a 450mm now, so I'll stick 18mm between the wall and the wall unit, and stick an extra 18mm fill between one of the other base units. I need the mitre saw for flooring / skirting boards too, so it wont go to waste. The integrated fridge freezer doors have been supplied undrilled, the fridge/freezer I've got has the sliding rail fitment, so I'm going to need to drill and fit the hinges to both of the doors. How straight forward is this, if there is a high chance that I'll co(k it up then I'll get someone in to do it, the doors are pretty pricey and it has to look right!? I see that there are a lot of jigs around, can anyone recommend the most fool proof way to do this?
Hopefully you have got your kitchen in and are well pleased with yourself. For others using this thread for info regarding fitting their own: When reducing the height of your legs remember you need enough height to ensure you can get your slot in/integrated appliances in. If you put a floor in after the units (which I would never recommend) then make sure your flooring goes all the way to the wall for any appliance recesses otherwise you will have a nightmare trying to get a washer/dryer or fridge/freezer out for servicing/replacement.
It's mostly in, and the flooring is down. I went under the washing machine and tumble dryer, but didn't think about the dishwasher and under counter freezer. I'll check clearance before the worktops go in next week. On that note, should I add ventilation to the plinth in front of the under-counter freezer? There is nothing in the freezer manual except to say 'ensure appliance has sufficient ventilation'. If so, what's the neatest / easiest way?
That is usually to cut a neat section - say 1" deep - from the top of the plinth (where it won't be seen) for almost the whole length of the plinth under the freezer. Mark a line 1" down from the top, and add nice curves at each end coming up to the top edge. Jigsaw from the back. Seal the cut surface with paint or varnish - use black (or even white!) if nothing close to the plinth colour is available. I presume this freezer sits on the floor, and there is no actual unit it sits inside? Ie - no back base unit panel? What could also be worth doing is to drill some holes along the back side panel edges of the adjacent units near their tops. This would allow any circulating air to pass through behind the back panels of these other units. But most of the circulation will be from cool air going in that plinth gap, up behind the freezer, and out in the small gap between it and the worktop.