Toilet Refurbishment

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Joe95, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Ground floor toilet refurb - mk 2...

    I now have a proper 110mm drainage pipe for the downstairs toilet, so I can do away with the macerator. However, rather than just another lick of paint and a bit of boxing in, I decided to do the room properly.

    The first stage was to take the room back to brick and take out the old stud wall.

    Before I took the plaster off, I opened the chases for the old wiring. Run in safe zones of course!

    IMG_0627(2).jpg

    Then back to brick:

    IMG_0753(2).jpg
    Found a redundant lead pipe running down the corner of the wall, as well as the main stopcock.

    Discovered the old porthole window too:

    IMG_0750(2).jpg

    Took out the old stud wall, toilet got a lot bigger then!

    IMG_0829(2).jpg

    Left with quite a pile of mess:

    IMG_0752(2).jpg

    Then I cut out the stopcock and threw some push fit in below, as a temporary measure.
     
  2. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Subbed
     
  3. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    This was the temporary main water feed, so I could remove the stopcock.

    IMG_0784.JPG

    Really like Screwfix's copper push fits, they are perfect for this kind of bodge work.

    This was what came out after some persuasion. Interesting design...

    IMG_0785.JPG

    It was buried in the plaster, with just the handle on show.
     
  4. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    I put up the stud wall, and boarded it with 18mm plywood. The reason for this will be clear later.

    The wall against the hallway required quite a bit of work. I needed to install an extractor, but the once external wall now faces into the new dining room. Don't fancy eating dinner with those fumes...

    I took the plasterboard off the inside face, and cut out two noggins. I then installed some spare 12mm plasterboard against the other side, to 'pack out' the wall. Cut a light switch in - dry lining box and used 3C&E cable. Then was onto the ducting. I installed 54 by 110 flat duct, using a round adaptor to face into the room. There's a 45 angle so the duct wouldn't interfere with the light switch placement. There's some more spare timber installed, a batten to keep the plasterboard flat, as it can't be fixed in the corner.

    IMG_0837.JPG

    IMG_0838.JPG



    It drops out through the floor, into the cellar, where I will deal with it later on.
     
    KIAB and Dr Bodgit like this.
  5. Fab - love these sorts of threads :D

    Where does that porthole lead to? Are you tempted?
     
  6. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Unfortunately it doesn't. When the house was built, it was an external window, which is now part of the extension. Nothing worth smashing through!

    However useful it may be that you can eat your dinner while looking at someone on the toilet, it didn't appeal to me...
     
  7. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I was thinking your missus could pass you your dinner while you're sitting on the toilet! :p
     
  8. In one end and out t'oth...

    soz :oops:
     
  9. The more I look at it, the more I'd be tempted to make it a feature. Block off the back of it - for reasons of modesty - but remove the filling from the bathroom side to leave a circular recess. Leave the immediately surrounding bricks exposed, and apply plaster to the rest of the wall.

    It's, like, part of the house, man. Yer bleedin' 'istory, innit?

    Or not.
     
    Jord86 and Dr Bodgit like this.
  10. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Agree, would be nice to make a feature out of it somehow. Somewhere to plonk the bogroll...
     
    KIAB likes this.
  11. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    I'd clean the wedge bricks up, board the wall bar the circle, paint the bricks a contrasting colour to the rest of the room, and get a glass manufacturer to make a mirror to fit the inner circle.
     
    KIAB and candoabitofmoststuff like this.
  12. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Erm, while that might be quite a nice idea, the room is already finished and in use...

    The idea of leaving the brick exposed didn't even cross my mind.
     
  13. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    'First Fix'

    Electric:

    One 1mm cable chased up the wall. Pushed the cable though the capping from below, and left the drum in the cellar, so I could take as much as I need later on.

    IMG_0857(2).jpg

    The wiring will all be terminated on the back of the stud wall, in a Wiska box.

    Plumbing:

    Made four chases, one deep one for the solvent weld 32mm waste pipe. The waste pipe has two 45's on the bottom to make the run less noisy and reduce the chance of anything collecting there.
    The second chase has the hot and cold feed for the basin. I used Buteline's 'tap connector' fittings so I could attach the mixer tap flexi's straight on.Isolation is handled elsewhere.
    The last two chases are for the rad, I'm using the one that was in there before. This rad will follow the style of hidden pipework too.

    IMG_0861(2).jpg

    I wanted the rad to be tight to the wall, and because of the chases, it made finding fixings difficult. I installed the rad brackets here.

    IMG_0870(2).jpg

    Then I boarded the lower part of this wall. My thinking was that if I needed some adjustment in the pipework, I would be able to do so with minimal damage, and not have to rip the chases open again.

    IMG_0896(2).jpg

    I also patched up some old holes with sand and cement, to make it easier when plastering. The rest of the brick will have bonding applied directly to it, and then multifinish over the whole lot.
     
  14. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Well thought out. Looks neat so far.
     
  15. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    That's somthing I regret about the kitchen build. I was so set on speeding through everything, I didn't get a chance to stop and consider what would help the next job. It's slowed the time to finish the build.
     
  16. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance :D

    All looks good Joe, some hours of work has gone into this.
     
    Joe95 likes this.
  17. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Super Member

    Nice one Joe.
    Keep up the good work...
    RS
     
  18. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Onto the plastering.

    Boarding:

    Threw in some sound insulation I had left over from another job,

    IMG_0892(2).jpg

    Then rough cut the vent hole out of the top of this wall,

    IMG_0902(2).jpg

    Then the plywood door,

    IMG_0901(2).jpg

    Bonding on the brick:

    Used 2 bags of bonding, left a smooth finish to make it easier to apply multifinish.

    IMG_0927(2).jpg
     
  19. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Multifinish

    Used my new Refina Superflex trowel, lovely trowel, makes it much easier to get a smooth finish.
    IMG_0946(2).jpg
    The day after I plastered, I went back over the wall with easi-fill. I used two 25KG bags of multifinish, and two 1KG bags of easi-fill. There were quite a few inperfections on the brick side, but after filling and sanding, the wall was completely flat and smooth.

    IMG_0985(2).jpg

    IMG_0986(2).jpg

    IMG_0987(2).jpg

    Mist Coat

    IMG_1097(2).jpg

    And Snow!

    IMG_1015(2).jpg

    It covers the bald patch on the lawn! Very little grass has grown back since I stopped working outside. :(
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  20. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Too cold for grass to grow, won't start until March onwards, might need to reseed.

    And that mist coat will show any imperfections, so you'll need a second coat.:)
     

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