morning lads I’ve got a problem and need a solution I’ve just finished latexing my kitchen floor and a small room 3.0m x 3.0m off the kitchen I have a difference of 25-30mm lower than the kitchen floor. The floor at the minute is 150mm concrete screed and just need to what my options are Can I sand and cement screed at such a small thickness Can I plywood straight on top (do I need a dpm) Or latex up to that thickness Any helps lads be much appreciated
Sand and cement will crack. For the cost of the plywood, hassle and lack of solidity, I'd personally just bring it up with self levelling compound. What's going on the floor?
Is it possible to use a thicker insulation board (better than ply) say 20mm or 30mm, tile adhesive making up any final differences when laying tiles. Could you use something like the (other makes available) ProWarm BACKER-PRO Tile Backer Board is available in various thicknesses, from 6mm up to 50mm to make up the difference? http://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/prowarm-backer-pro-tile-backer-board http://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/backer-boards-comparison
Possibly, hence the question, but for a novice(no offence OP) a flat level floor is the way to go. Even a pro would still prob go with a uniform floor. Bedding up floor tiles with adhesive is soul destroying. With adhesive and SLC about the same price, its a no brainer
A flat floor will be your saviour. You may also want to consider using levelling clips for your tiles...helps prevent lippage. Don't forget to back butter your tiles.
I could of done but I got all the 6mm boards and under floor heating delivered yesterday and only latexed the floor the day before and found the levels way off so was looking for best option with short space of time
You're really better off using the 6mm boards on a flat level floor anyway. If you're stuck for time, then rapid set SLC is the way to go, but you must work quick and efficiently. If you can, use dots on the floor to see exactly where the low spots are. These are simply bits of plastic packers or wood stuck to the floor showing the desired height/level of the floor after using a straight edge/spirit level. A couple of blobs of silicon will hold them in place. That way, when you pour, you'll have a guide to work to. You could then pour in a few stages...say a couple of smaller pours with rapid set, then one final overall pour of normal set. That way, you can control what you're doing and you're building in a bit of a safety margin if you're not too confident with using rapid set over a large area. Start boarding the next day
I’ll go with the slc as you said but just a question , what is the reason I couldn’t use plywood on top of the slab with vapour barrier would the ply rot over time
You're potentially adding some flex to the floor and also causing problems due to the difference in material properties with regards to expansion etc. Get the floor flat and uniform and you're more than half way there. SLC is a bit pricey, but much cheaper than ripping your newly tiled floor up.