Hi There. I'm going to be removing a wrought iron fence in a few weeks and have purchased a HITACHI G23ST/J1 2000W 9" ANGLE GRINDER 230V with a MARCRIST BF650SF TURBO DIAMOND BLADE to do the cutting. I'm hoping this combination will make light work of cutting the fence to pieces, I have all the necessary PPE and I'm prepared (I think) for the kickback & sparks. And I'm well aware of the potential for injury. This is as much a brag as anything as it's a beast of a machine and I can't wait to use it. Request 1; I'm experienced with powertools but this is my first angle grinder so any advice regarding it's use will be gratefully recieved no matter how basic it may seem to you. Request 2; Can anyone please recommend a suitable grinding disk as I may need to smooth off any leftover sharp edges & also the post stubs where they enter concrete? Many thanks in advance. Gordon.
A favourite of mine. https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-grinding-disc-9-9mm-x-6-x-22-23mm/8532x There are others, but only from competitor. And wear decent footware, boots, not trainers. Spark are not a problem, as you can adjust guard to direct them away from you. If cutting off post below ground, make sure you have enough space to use grinder safely.
Good point. When cutting angle iron,watch for snatching of the blade when part way through the cut,as the angle iron can collapse/ fold over onto the blade.
The blade mentioned in the original post is more suited to cutting stone, reinforced concrete etc and is not the best choice for cutting metal railings. A better choice for what you are planning to do would be something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-metal-cutting-disc-9-230mm-x-1-9-x-22-2mm/3751v
If it cuts like the Marcrist CR850, then it's ok, but a darn expensive blade for cutting old angle iron,I would have bought a few of the cheaper blade you listed.
Not once does the original poster mention Angle Iron,did google say that. The original poster is asking advice from someone that knows what they are talking about and have experience in what he is about to do. Not someone who gives out what they read on google.
Usually prop some ply around the area to protect from flying objects , I bought about 100 stone cutting discs from bnq about 10 years ago for 10 p each and use them for metal as well . Don't forget plan b pity
The blade you have is ok to cut the iron. As others say watch for snatching as a 9" grinder has a load of welly and can hurt, I know! Take it easy and let the machine take it's own time and don't force it. Don't know how big the fence is but might have some scrap value there?
As Rolandk says it might be worth something in scrap or if quite nice consider an Architectural Reclaimation yard. Have you not thought about using a 4 1/2" grinder it is a lot easier to use.
I'm grateful to everyone who replied. So; 1. Steel toe cap boots - wouldn't have worn but now will. 2. Fire extinquisher; this would not have occurred to me until too late but one will be on hand. TY Astramax 3. Localise the work area with some timber, but keep enough room for the tool to operate unimpeded. 4. Norton blades have been recommended more than once, so getting some tomorrow. 5. Big tool for the job? Yep, have to admit to being drawn in by macho desire but also the advice that you should buy the best you can afford, I'm hoping that this combination will go through the iron like the proverbial knife through butter. I know the blade was dear but I'm hoping it'll last for a long time as the reviews say, I'll be cutting slabs at some point later too. The tool won't be in use every day, not at first anyway but I'm hoping it'll do me for years. Cheap tools really are false economy- learned that the hard way. 6. Kickback sounds like a significant threat so it'll be nice and gentle all the way, letting the tool do the work. Easy does it, like a core-cutter. 7. I think there may be around £20 in scrap value. Whatever the case that'll go back to the customer. I'm indebted to you all yet again. Gordon.
Forgetting about health and safety for a moment, how close is this fence to the house?, any windows nearby? Decorated a house last week where a BT engineer had cut some steelwork with a grinder in close proximity to a window, the sparks fused to the glass and made a right old mess, brown rusty stain that wont budge. I've also seen on several occasions plumbers cut through cast iron soil pipes, they might sweep up and for as long as the weather is ok, it all looks fine, light rain shower, an entire house elevation and half a dozen upvc windows ruined, or at the very least, requiring a hell of a lot of remedial work.
God, what a thought! The fence is about 5 or 6 metres from the bungalow window so as a result of your suggestion I'll be sending the sparks in the opposite direction towards the road. As there may be cars parked nearby I'll be putting some sheet timber between the workzone and them. I reckon I'll be building a makeshift shed to control where the sparks fly. I'll stop cutting if pedestrians/animals are near. I'm glad I asked, I never realised so much could go wrong. Thanks for that. Good one.
I'm getting the impression that this tool is too much for a newb. Maybe I'll return the Angle Grinder and buy a new hacksaw instead. :-/
At five or six metres you should be fine, all the damage I've seen from rust stains have been when cutting a metre or so from the house. Iron filings from the cut obviously are a fine dust and will rust wherever they settle.
4" or 4.5" will take forever to cut through, just use 9" letting it do the work and you holding it nice and firm but not so firm that you gets finger cramps.