Hi, I've ordered an oven and hob to replace existing oven. The hob needs hard wiring. The new oven is rated 2.4 kw and requires a 13 amp fuse according to the manufacture. I have a 32amp mcb in the consumer unit and a hardwire connection point in the kitchen. What would be the best was to connect this. A local electrician said to just he would just cut off the plug and wire both the oven and hob to a dual connection point and Another said he would spur a single socket from the connection point as this would keep the 13amp fuse to protect the apliance and the cooker switch will power both the hob and oven. What's your thoughts?
The second opinion is the right one. Especially as the manufacturer SPECIFIES a 13A fuse for the oven.
Fuses do not protect appliances, they are sized for the cable or flex serving the appliance. Ovens are fixed loads so will never draw more than the design rating. No idea why the manufacturer would specify a 13A fuse?
I’m not having a go, or anything. But I’ve always wondered about that. It’s true that it’s a fixed load. Surely though, in a situation where a fault occurs, in the appliance, the current could exceed the expected fixed load current, the 13A fuse being the safety device?
I have ordered the oven and hob but have not received it yet. It's on the manufacture website that states 13 amp fuse required. Of both hob and hob were hardwired to the cooker circuit with 32 amp mcb would this be safe?
Any idea what size cable goes to the connection point? 6mm2 T+E would be about 13mm x 7mm. 4mm2 T+E would be about 11.5mm x 6.5mm.
6kw + 2.4kw = 8.4kw. 8.4kw / 240v = 35A, more than the 32A MCB, but this isn’t necessarily a problem.
It is far from a problem when diversity is applied. You are allowed up to a 15kw cooker on a 32a cooker circuit.Diversity is then taken into account.
The manufacturer says fit a fuse so fit a fuse,if not fitted it would be get out clause for guarantee claim. Fit a dual box with cooker connection unit one side and a single socket the other. Use good quality like MK and not some of the cheap tat like LAP.
Brill, thanks. So just to clarify a single socket connected to cooker connection unit in a dual box. Would the socket just be a spur from the cooker connection unit
The 13a fuse will help to protect the oven components if there’s a fault. For example if the element shorts out the fuse will blow rather than damage selector switch or clock relays etc.