Fitted a new salamander ct55 shower pump as old one expired after about 5 years but had to change the pipework as the new pump in/outlets go straight up and the old ones were on the side and up. All worked perfectly to start with but then nothing came out the taps when turned on until 5-10 seconds later. Now nothing comes out at all and pump not working. I've a horrible feeling I've piped it wrong and not got enough straight pipe to give enough of a constant water flow to pump therefore causing airlocks and possibly now damage to the pump. I've read you need about a metre of pipe from cylinder to pump but can't find anything that says it has to be straight. Although logic suggests it should be but pipes are angled so difficult to fit and the old one worked ok for 5 years. The pump is fitted into a holiday flat on a hot water supply only as the cold comes in direct from the mains. However it goes to bath, basin and kitchen sink but all are within 3-4 metres from pump and it all worked ok with the old pump. And help and advice is much appreciated.
It should work fine as long as there's no air lock - can't see how the pipes run outside of the photo, do any of the pipes go up and then down thus creating an air lock?
There is a red wheel valve. This was checked but also taken apart to make sure it's working ok as known to seize up. All workin ok
Thinking they are saying that it is the wrong pump without saying anything. Peeps like that are annoying
The water coming in from the cylinder is all down hill through the copper piping then steps as per the photo....however the water going out us uphill then drops down to go off to sink basin and bath.
Oh ok..we took the old pump to plumbers for a replacement but told it had been discontinued and gave us the ct55 and said this is what has replaced it..just took their word for that as they know more than I do.
I think you will find that the 1m of pipe between cylinder to pump should be vertical and is known as ‘head’ Could have 4m of pipe between cylinder and pump but no good if it’s all horizontal Pump is sited correctly at base of cylinder so ‘if’ hot supply comes out top of tank (either the very top or side near the top) that should give approx 1m head / drop to pump, allowing gravity to do its thing and enough water to trigger the flow switch. Is this hot supply via an approved flange (as per instal instructions) ? Have you turned the cold feed back on to cylinder as it’s this cold feed that pushes out the hot water Also, those horizontal poly pipes need supporting, hot water will cause them to sag and put strain on the connectors and flexi hoses Call Salamander in the morning - very helpful customer services / tech department and you get to speak to a human being ! Lines are often busy so a wait is likely They will want exact instal details and pipe runs and measurement etc but may shed some light on this issue Also once pump is confirmed as correctly installed, they offer a free extended warranty under the ‘Pumpwise’ tag - you should have received details with new pump Good luck
My apologies I wasn't trying to be obtuse. For your application you need a negative head pump. Some Salamander pumps can be either negative or positive depending on how you configure it at switch on. If the CT55 doesn't offer this option then you have the wrong pump. I know this as had a customer with exactly your set up. It worked for a while and then started playing up. I spoke to Salamander technical and they said it had to be negative head. I hope this helps.
So you mean that because the pipes are set up in this way (meaning no vertical head length of 1m for gravity fed/positive head pump) i would need to fit a negative head pump and then i can leave the pipework as it is and it should work ok?
Not sure I agree on need to have a negative head pump, question is - how far above the outlet (bath/shower head) is the cold water tank that is presumably supplying the hot water cylinder? The 1m head that's needed is the height between water supply and output and I can't see that mentioned.
Is that between shower head and bottom of the tank or water level in tank or outlet pipe of the tank?
Hey its easily corrected but some cash will have to exchange hands heck your a lettings agent or land lord. The property is a rental,why not ask your compliance person to sort it all out. DIy in lettings is usually prohibited but there are exceptions. Everyone knows that !
Between water level in the tank and shower head. Everything in between is essentially part of the pipe.
Yes A positive head pump relies on a flow switch to activate it. In the shower the pressure of the cold mains can sort of overwhelm the hot so there is insufficient flow to activate the switch. That's why it works ok with an individual tap outlet. A negative head pump relies on a pressure switch to activate it. When outlets are closed the pump continues to run until a predetermined pressure is reached which activates the pressure switch and turns the pump off. When you open an outlet the pressure drops, the switch re-closes and the pump runs. The positive and negative refer to the height of the shower head relative to the pump not the height of your cold water storage tank relative to the pump.