I'm new to the forum , so "Hello to you all" .... I recently bought my first table saw, a Titan TTB763TAS Table Saw. I know it's at the "cheap & cheerful" end of the market, but I'm just a hobbyist, and after a bit of tweeking & setting-up, it seems to perform pretty well ... But I have found one very annoying "fault" with it ... If I move or touch the Dust Extraction Port (at rear), the blade will move "off centre" ... For example, if I set the blade to 90 degrees and put slight pressure on the extractor port, the blade has moved slightly, and has to be re-set . I suspect this movement may also be there when the saw is cutting, due to vibration .. Has anyone else had this problem ?? How did you fix it ?? Many Thanks
That was my first thought ... The motor/blade/ extraction system, are one unit and is connected to the table by a kind of "cradle" arrangement ... allowing the blade to swing through 45 to 90 degrees. It is held to the table by front & rear clamps - 2 bolts in each (all are tight) ... But there is slight movement at the rear clamp which is causing the blade mis-alignment. I'm guessing that many of these entry level saws have a similar arrangement ... I was kinda hoping someone had the same problem in the past - and had solved it !!
Post a photo of the internals, rear clamp,etc, might come up with a solution. That saw is sold under many names like Mac Allister,etc.
I would replace existing nuts with nylocs nuts,& should stop bolts vibrating loose,use flat washers with them, not a spring washer.
I’ve got the same table saw and although usually don’t bother hooking up extract port, I always try and use it in the garden and go for ‘natural’ extraction !! Have used it though and haven’t noticed a problem with knocking blade out of true Will take a look at mine but not home at moment I remember there’s a lot of assembly when you get the box home - dbl check all put together correctly and fixings tight Ps, the stand is massive though !! Way too big for my garage so flat packed it again and put up in loft (for what I have no idea) !! Either use it straight on ground or ply top I made clamped onto workmate
Had a closer look at the Titan Table Saw. Everything is tight and operating as it should. The "cradle" mount ( in first image) contains a little Nylon Slider which allows the whole unit to swing between 90 & 45 degrees and as far as i can make out, that is where the slight play is. The downside of a bargain basement saw, I guess ... Although I have to be honest, for the price, I think its a great little saw ... and the slight run-out wont make a lot of difference to the type of work I use it for. The last image is my not very hi-tech attempt to minimise the problem -a bungee strap and a big screw ... Not very pretty, I know .. . but it seems to work !!
I bought a Titan a few months back and, until recently, it has barely been used. I have found it to be a great addition to my small hobbyist collection; making light work of elongated cuts I'd normally screw-up with a jig' or skill saw but, (there's always a but), I have found that the blade drops of its own accord. If I do several runs across it I note that I have to wind the blade back up to keep cutting through the same depth of wood. Is there something during assembly that I missed? It isn't truly severe but if I raise the blade high enough to cut through a 2cm thick plank, after I have made the cuts I require in 2 or 3 240cm lengths I will need to reset the blade. Any thoughts on what I might have missed would be truly appreciated.
Hi Ashley i bought the same saw this week and i havent used it yet so i cant help with your question but maybe you can help me with my question? My riving knife is 1mm or to the right of the blade is this normal with the saw? This is my 1st table saw so i am not sure if it is correct and i have read that knife and blade need to be aligned Andy
To be honest, I couldn't say for certain. This is also my first table saw. And I have the scars to prove it. ha ha I imagine the knife is designed to assist in both guiding and, maybe, separating the timber you are cutting, thus alleviating pressure on the blade but, still . . .i would have thought it would have been in direct alignment with the blade, so any difference in width would be measurable either side, if this were the case. I am not currently using the guide/knife. I will check tomorrow to see if mine is true or, if not, whether I can see a way to adjust besides gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet. In the meantime, let me know if your blade drops during use. It is my only annoyance with this unit (besides it trying to bifurcate my thumb!!)
Hi Ashley i was advised to bring the saw back so i done that on sunday past. I never got to use the saw so i cannot say if the blade dropped or was likely to drop sorry that doesnt help you Andy
Just built my new saw, with the riving knife misaligned, I’d not installed it properly, see the manual p26 fig3b. There is a plate as well as the turn screw. The knife needs to go behind both. There’s a photo earlier in this chain showing it as well. The manual is online here http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/pa_1329455.pdf
I had one of these titan saws, made two cuts with it and took it back. IMO it wasn't fit for purpose. Yes, its cheap, but, it really is cheap and cheerful, the poor alignment on everything makes it a complete waste of money. If your not bothered about accuracy, you may as well take your chances with a decent blade in a circular saw with a sensible guide. There is a heap of stuff on YouTube with people doing mods to improve this saw. I am a big lover of SF, but some of the stuff they bring to market is junk. Remember just because its cheap - doesn't mean it should be a pig of a thing to use!!
I've got a Scheppach model which is very similar, but with an upgraded table top and guide rail. The riving knife can be a ballache, mine wasn't aligned properly out of the box so needed a bit of adjustment to stop it pinching the work piece against the rail. I've not tried doing anything other than 90 degree cuts, but have noticed that the mechanism that alters the angle only seems to hold at the front. I bought a UKJ digital level box to help me with adjusting the angles, really good bit of kit (magnets hold it to the blade and you turn the wheel until the LED screen shows whatever angle you're after)
I wouldn't recommend removing the riving knife by the way... It's there to prevent the two pieces of the cut workpiece pinching on the blade and being projected into your face!
Agreed. You really must familiarise yourself with kickback and how to avoid it. There are many good videos online (none from manufacturers as far as I can tell). This is a good place to start: