You read the wrong one this is the one I have used (can be poured between 3-40mm per lay), and there is no mention of using primer between coats https://cdnmedia.mapei.com/docs/lib...renovationscreed3240-uk.pdf?sfvrsn=ab6c8e97_0 Anyway, the noise was there before the SLC was applied
Riiiight........ that one however doesn’t mention multiple applications of the product though. No offence, but if the noise was there before why did you carry on with the latexing? Post a couple of photos up and indicate where the cracking is coming from.
I don’t have an answer to that, I guess as it disappeared after walking on it, we assumed it wouldn’t come back every morning, plus we had already contracted the guy to do the latexing
I wish it was that simple, I could just cut through with the circular saw and create the gap, but a gap between something that is fixed down is not required I screwfixed very close to the edges
If you had glued it I would agree. But you're right in running a skill saw down the joins, its one way of hopefully sorting the problem out, albeit the desperate option. Basically what you have is a badly laid floor on top of a badly laid floor.
I welcome your opinion, but I’m not convinced; lack of glue might be the reason of the noise, but nothing to do with the gaps
Its the same when you lay roofing sheets, 5mm gap to deal with expansion. Think about the noises you started with, when did it get worse? after you laid the 6mm ply. You could have got away with putting a good bead of pu at the butts and got away with it. Botton line is you have a creaky floor. Your options are get a track saw and run it down all the joins or rip it up and start again or live with it.
I just tried to run my circular saw through the joints of one sheet; I waited 24hours, I came back and stepped on it and it still makes the same noise (coming from other sheets)
Not to dispute Wiggy but I wasn't convinced it was due to the lack of gaps unless you boarded tight to the walls, even then you said it was creaking before that so unfortunately I think you’re stuffed. Contact Mapei and see if you’ve any form of recourse with them for following their instructions, but I wouldn’t get any hopes up.
Look, you said it creaked before you levelled over but you still levelled it anyway, you used 15mm screws which are nowhere near long enough to secure anything, you used 6mm ply which in my opinion is no good for overboarding work, you didn’t glue the ply down with the screws, you used a leveller product that doesn’t state it’s suitable for another application of a second layer which you did, your dips in the floorboards were in the region of 30mm, you plyed it yourself to save money on labour so you’ve no recourse against anyone for a poor installation, and you went over the installers application with another layer, which whether it was suitable or not, you didn’t prime it anyway. I don’t know what answer you want other than take it all up or live with it. There’s no nice way to say it. It’s a bodged job on top of an unsuitable substrate, that wasn’t prepared properly at the beginning.
I have a similar problem with new extension; completely new floor. I've tracked the creak (I think) to where one or two joists rest on the brickwork in the end wall. Good news is that when furniture placed in the room, the weight is enough to keep the floor pressed down and stop the creaks. (otherwise I was considering making a hole through the cavity wall from the outside to pack up the joist
I doubt this has anything to do with what I’ve done as yours is a new extension but, just checking: have you laid 6mm plywood over existing floorboards or used a self levelling compound over the plywood?
Which model or brand you are using? I'm looking for the best budget circular saw for my steeling cutting work. I have read some reviews about it but need more help.
Thanks DIYDave! This is exactly the advice and affirmation that I was looking for - going to do exactly this! My floorboards are sound (well secured, no bounce, slightly uneven thicknesses here and there due to different boards being used over the years), but the whole floor slopes in one direction resulting in a 30mm difference from one side of the room to the other. Anyone got any good advice of what to use around the edges to stop the compound disappearing under the plasterboard? I've seen polystyrene edging or foam edging used but I can't seem to find the same stuff available to buy in the UK.
Query on using the Mapei 3240 screed... I put their primer down last weekend and hoping to screed this weekend... not sure if too long between coats? Should I coat another primer coat?