What to do with large skirting boards (Victorian?) when laminating?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Alan M, Nov 13, 2020.

  1. Shytot

    Shytot Active Member

    I don’t get the option of adding a 2nd board in front of existing skirt - how’s that going to work at plinth blocks and architraves ?
    The plinth stickout from the existing skirting by 15mm so easy to put a 10mm over skirting
     
  2. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Look at the picture - the skirt/plinth blocks/ architrave are heavily moulded. There is no practical neat way to cover this on a narrow hall with 6 doors - it will look carp. Similarly, undercutting, to me, is a non starter - with skirts both sides, you can't get the last pieces in. It's a horribly fiddly job to fit laminate around all those doors neatly. If it's a freshen-up for sale, I would re-carpet - a good carpet fitter could make that look really smart. IMHO a high quality hard floor in a complex hall is going to cost ££££ whatever material you use - there is nowhere to hide - it's either a precision job with high quality materials, or a bodge.
     
    Alan M likes this.
  3. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    Yes, exactly that. Just want to make sure whatever I used wouldn't likely tear lumps out the original if ever removed.
     
  4. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    So I was thinking of getting something like this:-
    https://skirtingboardsdirect.com/products/mdf-bullnose-skirting-boards-15mm-thick/

    Which should sit near enough flush between the plinths once cut to length.

    Gives a cover to the laminate spacing, prob give ~ 5mm either side. Then just cut the bottom of plinths for the laminate to slide under.

    Once done, attach the second boards (Pre-painted), and repaint the tops of the old boards / door frame. I'm hoping this would give a neat finish.

    Otherwise, re the selling factor - we're not on market yet (prob as soon as Xmas out the way), and whether it would any monetary value for sure is questionable but the carpet is really poor now and we just think it would brighten up the entrance / make it much more presentable.
     
  5. Shytot

    Shytot Active Member

    Looks good to me , do they have any other moulds at 15mm . Not too sure the bullnose will match original?
     
    Alan M likes this.
  6. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    I'll need to look. Was just showing that as an example really but actually it will have to be squared off at the top like the plinths otherwise it won't look right.

    There isn't actually that great an area which shows tbh - six doors coming off plus the longest wall section has a rad on it which it will be beneath, so I think it will be ok.

    Any views on here re ukflooringdirect? (That's my first choice for the laminate based upon the samples they've sent)
     
  7. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Even if you use a cover piece between plinths, what will you do with the plinth blocks? Same problem - you can't get the last laminate piece in without a gap because it has to clip and push together. Your call, but this has the makings of a dogs dinner.
     
  8. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    You use a multi tool to cut space for the laminate to slide under the bottom of the plinths. There's plenty of videos showing this as a means to getting a neat finish on YouTube.

    You use a spare piece of laminate against the under flooring to mark the cut height.

    There's been other comments about this on the thread, didn't think this was an issue?
     
  9. Shytot

    Shytot Active Member

    I worked on a very old house about 5 years ago which had large plinth blocks . Managed to find the slotted screws and remove them . It’s worth a investigation. Try rubbing a strong magnet over the blocks to find the screws.
     
  10. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Having laid a lot of laminate, I think you are underestimating how fiddly this could be...
     
    Rick1632 and WillyEckerslike like this.
  11. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    The point @Mr Rusty is making is that there comes a point where you cannot slide the laminate sufficiently out of the way to click the last piece in because of the other doorways that you've done and the width of the plinth block that you're trying to clear. If you've never done laminate before this will be a baptism by fire.
     
    Alan M and Mr Rusty like this.
  12. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    Well, I certainly don't want to be getting into anything too tricky on my first laying but from what I recall it wasn't really too bad. I think the method was to cut the bottom of the plinth, cut the protruding "click" section of laminate from the previous piece, slide it into place, then wood glue along the length of previous slotted piece and push back into place.

    I'll see if I can find the video and post...
     
    Shytot likes this.
  13. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    Just incase any is interested, here's the video I was looking at:-


    This shows the technique around door frames. Not in the video but in another I watched made clear the importance of measuring from your starting wall, so you could cut a shorter starting length accordingly, so you wouldn't have a large length before the door frame.
     
  14. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    :eek::eek:
     
    Alan M likes this.
  15. The Happy Builder

    The Happy Builder Screwfix Select

    How wide is your hallway?
     
  16. Alan M

    Alan M New Member

    It's a T shaped hall. Just under 2m for the most part along the 5.5m length. The top of the "T" is ~ 3.5m.
     
  17. The Happy Builder

    The Happy Builder Screwfix Select

    You will have to lay the flooring and trim around the edges against the existing skirting board to scotia or something similar.
     
  18. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    cartoon-dog-puking (1).jpg
     
  19. The Happy Builder

    The Happy Builder Screwfix Select

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