So it should look something like this then.. Now just need to decide if I want a screen along back of shower tray. Was only thinking of on side. but then the back part will have alot water splashes.
I didn’t realise you were considering a screen, Even with the end panel you’ll also get splashes through the ‘door’, any reason why you can’t use just a longer side screen and enter through the end? It’ll give you more useable wet area and may negate the need to recess the tray flush to the floor if you’re prepared to whizz over it with the bath mat when you’re done.
Also, I'm wanting to put a freestanding bath against the wall. My question was how would I ever have access to tap fixtures or trap in future if there were any problems?
I have a 25mm profile tray. Plumber saying he wants to sit in the floor. Reinforce the joist with noggins and put 9mm ply on it. Then the tray on top of that. Will 9mm ply with no noggins be strong enough for no movement please?
Personally I'd use noggings and battens fixed to the sides of the joists and set 18mm down so you can drop strips of 18mm ply in to finish flush with the top of the joists.
In that case if leaving it flush with current floor. Why not jus keep current floorboard and cut a hole out for the waste and pipe? The whole point of sitting the tray on top of joist with ply on is so the main floor isn't too high. Because the way you saying it.. The current floor will be 25mm raised on top of existing floor board. To sit the tray below floor level means the main floor won't be as high after ply and tiled.
Cut out made for the tray now. How best would you fit it. 25mm profile. Wanting the tiles flushed with tray with end finish 18mm floorbaord removed
Surely your fitter knows how to do this? You need to work out the finished height of your floor and work to that, floorboards (check for movement and screw down if necessary) will need overboarding with material suitable for taking tiles (I use magnesium board screwed down over tile adhesive) then take into account the highest point of the existing floor, thickness of tile plus adhesive and work back from that, with only 7mm difference between the existing floorboard and tray you'll need to add some height to the joists with another board over the 18mm ply/joist arrangement already discussed.
He does but I'm making sure it's the correct way by asking questions on here. Cos a single 90 push fit would make the pipe arched a like a rainbow
Just because I do things a certain way doesn’t necessarily make it the ‘correct’ way. I would imagine there’s nothing worse than having a customer watching over your shoulder double checking everything especially when the customer themselves has no actual experience in bathroom fitting.
My shower tray instruction state it should be laid on sand cement mix. However plumber adamant to only use flexible adhesive. Said never had issues before. Its a 25mm crosswater low profile tray sitting on top of 9mm ply. Flexible adhesive OK?
Lots of older threads talking about this. Flexible adhesive would almost certainly do the job but would void any warranty on the tray.