Hi, have seen some posts about filling in the borrowed lights over internal doors , with plasterboard etc. on this job the existing coving runs up to and is terminated at each door frame so will need to be continued across each door. has anyone successfully "slotted in" a piece of coving over the door (traditional paper covered plaster type) or removed the whole run of coving an start again ? As there is a lot to do I can imagine it will be messy getting the old plaster off - especially as ceiling was skimmed after the coving was put up. thank
diver, I think you got us here a bit. Are you intending to return the borrowed lights. I can't see what you mean about coving over the door.
picture is worth a thousand words. these glass panels are old hat now and she who must be obeyed wants them gone
Yes. If you can get a one piece length of coving to fit wall to wall, would be best. Otherwise, cut back the coving so its not obvious over the door frame. Fit in new section of coving & fill the join areas, sand down & paint.
Leave the coving as it is. Remove the glass and fit MDF in its place. Gloss paint it white,or whatever the door is painted if not gloss.
hmm, would not get away with that I am afraid, but will try masterdiy's suggestion of cutting it back a bit either side.
so are you going to leave the architrave in place all the way and instead run a piece of notched out coving over the top? hmm, doesn't sound like it would look great imo
Tell her to do it then... Seriously though you can do the coving as suggested above but if it's going to look any good you'll have to remove the replace the architrave and get a seamless repair over the door with your plasterboard - on both sides of the door. Edit: As @I-Man points out above
no, the top section of the door frame will be cut out and blockwork/plasterboard added then new architrave and coving etc - so will look like a standard frame and wall ( which is more up to date I think.
if the joins in the coving look less than seamless, , then it will be new coving all round - will probably outsource this aspect to an expert.
Ah, so your going all in and doing it properly - fair enough. So for the coving, first try out a test piece to fill the gap - a multi tool will be your friend here to help make a clean and straight cut into the existing coving. Usually when joining covings lengths it's best to cut at 45 degrees rather than simply butting up, as helps to hide the seam. Suggest first of all, cut a filler piece of coving slightly longer then the gap, hold in place and accurately mark where the existing coving would need to be cut in order to accommodate it. Use the multi tool, however it may be tough to get the 45 degree cut made whilst in situ (you can opt for straight cut and but joint with filler over the joins). If it fits ok then you're all good - if it's protruding due to ceiling/wall being skimmed after, the you can try and shave some of the coving off using a rasp (can get messy), or failing that just remove the old coving and fit a whole new length. Not a difficult job, you should be more than capable if you're doing the other work above the door.
Thanks I-Man, sounds a fair approach to me, I know if you can get the joints lined up then with patience they can be filled and sanded to be almost invisible.
As long as you can get new coving exact size and profile, then cut away the returns and piece in a new section - obviously once door frame has been altered, gap battened and plaster boarded and skimmed After all, coving lengths are often joined in any decent sized room and this is ‘standard’ cove so easy enough Don’t try butt joints but cut cove and new section at 45 degrees - don’t ask me why but gives better end result Use cove adhesive or Easifill for hiding the join, but get it lined up near spot on in the first place I’ve made some poor joins disappear by extending the filler around 6” either side of join and then feathering this out to zero - a wide taping knife is useful for spreading the filler over a wide area Easifill sands down without much effort, don’t expect to make perfect in 1 hit (although this may be possible), just sand, fill, repeat until perfection is achieved Best to ‘mist coat’ the filler once your happy with it as it’s super thirsty stuff then paint the lot Also, PVA @ 1-4 on cut ends of cove improves the adhesion of filler / cove adhesive, also on new plaster where cove sits (don’t splash PVA over rest of plaster to be painted as can cause havoc with the emulsion) Will look great when done, bit of work yes but worth it for sure - good luck
Hi, ongoing project to remove and plasterboard over the glass panel at the top of internal doors.... has any one ever plastered over the joints between plasterboard sheets when there has been a small fillet of wood in between them I wondered if you used fibreglass tape over the joint and then used joining compound . would it stick ? the wood fillet between the plasterboard edges would be about an inch. ( thinking i could save cutting out that part of the door frame all together )