Making my own skirting board only using table saw

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by DIY_Has123, Dec 27, 2021.

  1. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    I'm having a go at making my own skirting boards. The attached pic is the style I'm after, old victorian style with a rebate around a third down and moulding on top. I've got plenty of MDF boards lying around so I figured I would cut them to size and glue pine moulding on top, after its primed and painted you can't tell its two pieces.

    Thing is I want to acheive the rebate cut on front which is about 2-3mm in, marked red in pic.

    How can I achieve this rebate cut without using a router and only using a table saw?

    My saw blade is about 2.8mm thick and goes about 70mm high so can I pass the boards through upright? Pressed tightly against the fence?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Simple, glue a strip of the correct width 3mm MDF to the front of the thicker MDF then no or minimal machining required.
     
    WillyEckerslike likes this.
  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Yes. Flatting and deeping is the traditional term though you hardly ever hear or read if these days, i.e. pass the piece through the saw deepest section first to set the depth of the rebate, then adjust the blade to cut through the material pushed through on flat.
     
    WillyEckerslike likes this.
  4. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Yes did think of that before, problem is I can only really have max 18mm skirting due to my door architrave and allowable space behind radiator. My MDF boards are 18mm.

    Plus can't really find 3mm MDF boards. Wickes and B&Q do this hardboard or fibreboard that is 3mm, not sure how durable it is or if its exactly like the MDF stuff.

    https://www.diy.com/departments/fibreboard-l-2-44m-w-1-22m-t-3mm/1696257_BQ.prd

    https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-General-Purpose-Hardboard-Sheet---3-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/110107

    Other places have 3mm MDF but due to the bulk size charge a high delivery fee, usually £20 plus....more than the price of board itself.

    Really want to just make do with stuff I already have.
     
  5. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Interesting. Was trying to research the technique and style of this type of cut but couldn't find anything.

    Can you please expand a bit further with precise instructions or point me to some guide or youtube videos showing this please?

    Would really help me out. Many thanks.
     
  6. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    There's a reason you don't hear about it much these days. You will possibly have to remove your blade guard and a lot of table saws have that attached to the riving which you may also need to remove. You also need to make sure that you have good infeed and outfeed support or you wont get a consistent finish. Once you make the second pass you might find the released section of the wood projected back towards you so don't stand in the line of fire.
    I've done it a lot in the past but wouldn't nowadays because experienced though I am, I don't consider it the safest method. Having an unguarded spinning blade projecting through a table is asking for trouble. There are better ways to to this.
    I assume your MDF lying around is only 2400mm so expect plenty of joins.
     
    Astramax and Jord86 like this.
  7. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    I have an evolution rage 5s table saw. Yes I've removed the plastic blade guard and usually use it without. Many youtube videos I've watched never have the blade guard on anyway.

    Riving knife I ALWAYS have on. Its to avoid kick backs. Anyway if you can point me to a detailed guide somewhere or video so I can assess whethere I'd like to have a go...would be much appreciated.

    And yes boards are 2400mm so about 3 joins for me using mitre glue for my room perimeter.
     
  8. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Table saws are traditionally known as Circulaw Saws or Bench mounted Circular saws, deeping is a horrible practice whereby the blade on the saw is extended out to make the cut (let's say 50mm) but to do so you have to remove the crown guard and riving knife at the back of the blade which then removes your protection from having your fingers turned to stumps, the riving knife is designed to act as a wedge which keeps the cut apart and stops the timber from binding back onto the blade, causing kickback and minced fingers. As you're using MDF there's very little possibility of it binding back on the blade being as it's a man made material, but the risk is still there being as you've removed the guard. You'd be better off nibbling the material away via many small passes i.e. Flatting, or a more modern term is called 'trenching', type in trenching cuts on a table saw on google or youtube and I'm sure you'll be able to take your pick.
     
    WillyEckerslike likes this.
  9. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I'm not familiar with that saw but a quick look at some internet pictures shows the riving knife sticking up above the blade. Unless you remove it, you will not be able to make these cuts.
    Edit: For the record my table saw is a decent one and I honestly cannot recall when I last used it. It will be years.....
     
    Mr Rusty likes this.
  10. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Thanks. Can only really find videos about trench cuts on mitre saw or joins like dado and half lap on a table saw.

    Can't really find anything about long cuts across a board.

    Out of interest, how would you achieve this using a router. I don't have a router tool and not sure if its worth the investment for me but I imagine a straight cut bit and pass along the fence using a router table?
     
  11. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Go to a timber merchant who will cut a sheet to your requirements, then the cut board will then fit into your own car.
     
  12. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Think this guy has made a jig for something similar here...

     
  13. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    Look up 'cutting a rebate with a table saw' on YouTube. The trouble is that as most of the contributors are from the other side of the pond they've probably called it a rabbet, sigh!
    So, look up 'rabbetting with a table saw' or similar and try to ignore the appalling approach to safety on a lot of the videos you will find.
     
  14. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Yes I've watched the 'rabbetting' videos before and aware of this term.

    But most of the videos still have the riving knife on so can't see why I need to remove it. Only difference is I will be doing a higher cut compared to these guys, upto probably 50-60mm, max on my saw is around 80mm.

    Like this guy here...still has the riving knife on.

    I will probably use scrap timber or boards and clamps to create a perfect 18mm space between side face of blade and fence so by the time I feed it through its a precise cut, or maybe one 16.5mm space and another 18mm for two passes....taking off 1.5mm with each pass. Blade is 2.8mm kerf which is enough but I reckon more pressure if trying to do it with just one pass.

     
  15. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    You're not taking in what you're being told or I'm/we're not explaining it well enough. That's okay, we'll get there

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but your riving knife projects above the blade so you cannot make those cuts with it in place. You can only cut right through any stock because the knife has to pass through the cut as well. The video you've attached has the riving knife below the top of the blade so the stock can pass over it.

    Feel free to remove the riving knife and the other safety features on your saw to achieve what you want. I don't recommend it but it is your choice of course.
     
  16. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    Oh I beleive you can adjust the height of the riving knife on my table saw...need to double check. Recommended height is always 10mm above the highest saw tooth as per the instruction manual but I beleive you can lower it to below the saw blade height.
     
  17. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    That's good news if that's the case. Good luck.
     
  18. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    I will also point out that by rebating the MDF with a saw you will have more of a cleanup and preparation task on your hands as MDF 'furs' up very easily, using a router gives a cleaner finish.
     
  19. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I really don't want to knock your enthusiasm but you had a similar conversation with @Jord86 and I yesterday about your shelf. Jord really knows what he's talking out and along with me having a bit of a clue you are querying good advice pretty much constantly. Whilst that is exactly what the forum is about, it does get a bit irksome for us.
    I really, really wouldn't want you to stop asking but please try listening! We'll help in any way we can if you do.
     
  20. DIY_Has123

    DIY_Has123 Active Member

    My shelf? Think you have the wrong guy lol.
    Don't remember posting anything about a shelf...that was probably a different user.
    And I'm not querying your advice, I appreciate it very much and just asked for more details as I was unsure why you explained it that way, perhaps a misunderstanding about the riving knife on my part.
     
    WillyEckerslike likes this.

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