You'll also need to run some battening round to finish the screed to, if a fairly dry firm nix you might get away without it slumping at the edges...
Never use vinegar, acetic acid, and bleach, sodium hypochlorite, in any combination or even one after the other as chlorine gas will be given off...
I presume what he's talking about is the fall from the trap to wherever the outlet is. Is he using a low profile trap or has he put in a trap...
Looks as if the back of it forms the boundary with next door so if you remove it you’ve that to contend with as well. I’d pop the facia boards...
If you replace the posts definitely do for concrete for longevity. Also if you want to avoid a load of work stagger the position of the new posts...
Remove the 4 little white caps and you'll find there are four screws beneath, holding the internal and external parts together.
Apart from compacting with your heels make yourself a 'scradging' board, essentially a giant non-toothed rake. Use a 1.8m or better 2.4m long bit...
Only a minor point but the ridge tiles aren't specifically mentioned and presumably they deem the fascias and soffits to be be in good order.
And make sure the operator doesn't leave a large hole for you to fill where the heap was!!
Firstly I would say those two holes are definitely woodworm exit holes. They could be very old, even occurring at the start of the seasoning...
Traditionally you always lightly compact the soil then leave it 25mm above any adjacent hard surface. It will always settle. Even then you might...
1.2m concrete spur, 600mm in and 600 mm out.
Have used VC175 successfully with white emulsion and never noticed any yellowing.
And slide the hammer across the glass when knocking in, not just aiming at the heads, that wat you never hit the glass.
It looks in the small photo as if you have managed to get the chrome button to pop back out. I have occasionally squirted some silicon lubricant...
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