I have managed to get some 100 year old Burmese Teak that I want to use in my yet to be built conservatory. The question is What is the best method to fix it? I have been given 2 options (1) Glue 3/8 ply to concrete floor and then fix teak to ply or (2) Go for a fully sprung floor.
You will need to get a planer/thicknesser and ensure all the boards (I'm asuming the timber to be boards) are the same thickness. When the conservatory oversite is laid ensure it has Jablite installed in the floor. Lay underfloor insulation on the concrete and lay the floor on the insulation. Dont stick it to the insulation allow it to float freely as it is a dark timber it will absorb the solar heat and expand, albeit slightly and if fixed may split. It isn't he best use for this product because it will discolour if not treated properly and regularly and split if fixed. Ensure there is a cork bead around the perimeter between the flooring and the perimeter of the building. Good Luck
Thanks CF. The Teak has already been planed and ~70mm x 22mm varying lengths. I Understand that I will have to regularly oil the flooring. Are you recommending that I do not fix the flooring at all?
No don't fix it at all. Allow it to expand and contract naturally. The conservatory is a place of extremes of temperatures and the floor will suffer as a consequence. If it were indoors and away from the extremes then I would fix it but not in this application. I would suggest that you use linseed oil on it but I would ask Wolfs advice on the oil first. Teak has some unusual properties and I am not sure of them all - He may know - In fact I'm sure he will know. Charlie
I agree with CF. (for once) WOLF will give the best advice on treating such an expensive timber. All I know about teak is that it is a naturally oily wood & contains silicon so will have blunted the planer blades.
Carl, my advice would be; Don't do it! conservatorys have too great a range of temperature and humidity for a solid wood floor to cope with. Unless the room is very small But if you must you have 2 options 1; lay a floating floor as CF sugests use a vapour barrier under the wood. You will need to complete small sections at a time, cramp up and let the PVA glue set then on and on. Leave an expasion gap round the edge but be aware the wood may shrink as well as expand!! 2; embedd wood battens in the concrete screed and nail the boards through the tongue ( you will realistically need a brad nailer (gun) for this) leave some room 1-2mm around each board so that each board can move. The floor will need sanding Teak dust is toxic it cause amongst other things dermatitis and lung problems. Finally what do you treat Teak with?? Teak oil!!!