cutting a high gloss door - possible or not?

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by seneca196, Feb 26, 2010.

  1. seneca196

    seneca196 Member

    thanks. some useful advice.

    What woyld be a good blade for the circular saw? how many teeth in "fine"? As I only have 2 doors and a couple of end panels, I don't need something to last forever.

    What's the best method to keep the ine straight? will clamping a wooden baton be ok, or should I invest in a guide clamp?
     
  2. joinerjohn

    joinerjohn New Member

    Hi Seneca, the blade you put a link up to earlier will be fine, as long as it fits in your circular saw. A batten clamped to the door/ endpanel will be fine. Just make sure you set the depth of the blade to around 5-8mm more than the thickness of the door/panel and take your time. Don't try to zip through it as quick as you can. It might be a good idea to cut the edge where the saw blade is going to finish at with a stanley knife, just to prevent the blade chipping the edge as it breaks through. Make sure the bit your cutting off is well supported when you get towards the end
    I used to use a spirit level as a straight edge before I had my Fessy. ;)
     
  3. seneca196

    seneca196 Member

    great help. much appreciated. I'm nearly set now (minus buying the blade)

    on a general carpentry point - I've usually found that the edge that I begin cutting is fine, but the last bit often chips (this must be the "breakout.") I normally stop just short and then either 1) start again from the other side 2) finish with a hand saw. Is there a better way to do it one go with the circular saw?

    If I score the front face and then clamp the back (the side that will be cut)I'll have to be really precise in lining up the baton on the other side. I'm just thinking that the blade will be thicker than the scored side and they might not be exactly in line (will a +/- a mm be too much!)
     
  4. joinerjohn

    joinerjohn New Member

    If the edges of the door are fairly square to the face, you could try clamping a piece of wood or MDF the same thickness of the door, where the blade is going to break out. This will help support the edge and minimize damage at this point. To cut from one side then to cut from the other would mean re-positioning the batten/ straight edge. Don't forget to take the thickness of the blade into account if you do it this way. ;)
     
  5. Joelp1

    Joelp1 New Member

    dont mess around buying a new blade for your circular saw, your router will already have sharp blades either in it or awaiting use. I plunge the exit so it doesnt splinter, assuming your blade has a cutting tip rather than just sides. You get a much better finish than any other way, certainly better that a normal circular saw.

    And i still dont believe a plunge saw gives a PERFECT cut.
     
  6. mrmitreman

    mrmitreman New Member

    router will chip the end,use festool plunge saw with chip guard,even better use flipover saw but wind the blade up as far as it will go,this will reduce chipping
     
  7. G Brown

    G Brown New Member

    ***! Just cut it with your circular saw! DOH!
     
  8. joinerjohn

    joinerjohn New Member

    "even better use flipover saw but wind the blade up as far as it will go,this will reduce chipping"

    Oh no it won't. The idea with any saw is to reduce the angle the blade cuts the material at. Winding the blade as hihg as possible increases the angle the blade cuts at..
    Did you not learn this at college or were you off that day?
     
  9. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    You want the thickness of a pencil between the gullet of the top two teeth and the workpiece. That'll give you the best finish. Or if its a flat panel double sided tape a bit of scrap above your cutting line to get a perfect chipfree edge.
     
  10. mrmitreman

    mrmitreman New Member

    er think again joiner jonn,when the blade is high, the point of entry of the blade cutting into the top of the material is cutting down into the material rather than into it therefore reducing splinters.better still try it.
     
  11. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Mitreman you are wrong wrong wrong, that kind of stuff is basic first day of the first week of the first year at college/apprenticeship kind of stuff. As above you need a pencils width below the gullet, the flatter the angle the crisper the cut. Incidentally there is a post that needs replying to on senecas other thread about why my advice on cutting end panels is useless
     
  12. mrmitreman

    mrmitreman New Member

    sorry m8 but i am correct.the higher the blade the less chipping,teeth cut down into material when it is high.much cleaner cut try it.
     
  13. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    What ever you say. Not quite sure that your credibility can stand many more of your unique innovative tips, methinks that possibly you dont really have a clue what youre talking about.
     
  14. mrmitreman

    mrmitreman New Member

    that explains it u r eastern european me thinks
     
  15. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    To be frank I would put more weight in the advice I would get off a Polish cowboy builder than yours
     
  16. mrmitreman

    mrmitreman New Member

    lol point proven
     
  17. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    This is pointless, I am done with this subject.
     

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