plastic push fit central heating pipes

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Thermo, Oct 4, 2004.

  1. Thanks for pointing that out DA, actually I've always made that connection between chrome and plastic with compression fittings, just to be on the safe side.
     
  2. dp

    dp Guest

    You will find a post by a chap called D Martindale in Gas News archive where he had used plastic on an open vented system converted to sealed system (as per makers recommendations).

    When the system was switched on, it overheated and the pipe melted. It can no longer sustain water pressure at 115 degrees or so. Water poured out of the ruptured pipe. Luckily, it was a sealed system so damage did not run into thousands.

    Hepworth proclaimed that the pipe had acted as a fuse and boiler makers refused to get involved. When push came to a shove, makers appear on site and slated the installation as defective since it was not balanced for 11 degree Centigrade. They took no responsibility for suggested placing of OH stat on the return pipe.

    Above is a barebones report that might be missing vital information making above slightly cockeyed. For a complete read do a search for the post on aforementioned Forum

    My main task is boiler repairs. I have found plastic does cause a problem in generating what I like to call tea leak corrosion. This can also be found on Gas News. This type of corrosion causes blockages in all size of plastic pipes (not just 10mm) as well as HW plate Hes

    If your system is plumbed in Acorn, you will be well advised to replace it all as air walks straight in through the wall. System water will be coffee coloured and installation well and truly choked.
     
  3. Thermo

    Thermo New Member

    Well ive managed to redo the heating , using the speedfit and thanks for all the advice. I thought i might share with you some of my problems and thoughts!

    1:- I have always nbeen used to using soldered copper, so it was a culture change. Dont forget to put the inserts in the ends of the pipes, i did for the first few joins, then had to start again!

    2:-if you are doing a refit, AVOID THE COILED LENGTHS OF PIPE LIKE THE PLAGUE!! Unless that is of course you want your wife to come home yto you fighting with a 25 metre long 22mm white plastic anaconda all over the floor as you try to unroll it! I would use the straight lengths, although it means you have a few more jois

    3:- its bloody quick and easy once you get going with it

    4:- make the place as quiet as possible so you can hear the reassuring click as you push it fully home

    5:- get ready for skinned knuckles as you fight to do up testuff, next to floor joists

    6:- the copper pipe is often difficult to click in, especially the 22mm stuff. make sure the end is clean, give it a wipe with steel wool and a little drop of a lubricant helps!

    7:- you never have enough fitting and inserts!

    8:- its lovely and quiet once its in and turned on

    Some will probably know all this, but if youre new to it, i hope my advice may help a little. Would i use it again? yes i would, but in certain areas and applications only

    Thermo
     
  4. Scottyboy

    Scottyboy Guest

    I was chatting to a guy in a shop a while back when his phone rang and his face fell.
    He'd left the customers house to buy a couple of extra bits and pieces and left a 15mm length of plastic pipe with stopend poking up through the floor, but it was hooked up to a Speedfit tee(the kind before they added the locking system) and the womans 3 year old kid yanked the pipe and pulled it straight out since the pipe released was pressed in when it hit the floorboards.
    He took off pretty sharpish - without his stuff!

    Scotty
     
  5. navplum

    navplum New Member

    if your using the kind of fitting before the new twist and lock type you can buy colletts that slip over the older fitting s that make it impossible for the pipes to be released unless the collett is removed
     
  6. devil's advocate

    devil's advocate New Member

    Glad to hear it went well, Thermo.

    Your 'thoughts' made me chuckle, especially No2! I know it well.

    Since it is obviously <u>essential</u> that the pipe goes all the way into the fitting, I always now mark the pipe with a felt-tip about 15mm from the end (this also reminds me to check I've fitted a sleeve..!) so that I <u>know</u> it's been fitted ok.

    I've actually been using the 'cuprifit' fittings recently on them 'cos it looks neater, I like the solidity of metal, and it costs about the same. They need a hefty push to fit and are an absolute sod to remove again if you need to - so little risk of it happening accidentaly!

    Further to your comments when using copper, I'd urge peeps to make <u>absolutely</u> certain the end is <u>completely</u> de-burred and smooth. Some pipe cutters (very conveniently) 'round' the ends of the cut copper as it does its job (especially blunt pipe cutters...), and once the inside edge is de-burred (so as not to cause turbulance) the finished end is pretty much perfect for push-fits. I still always wire-wool the ends and add a smear of silicone grease to be sure, tho'.
     
  7. Mr Tectite

    Mr Tectite New Member

    I tend to use Tectite fittings when using push-fit. They look more professional. Speedfit is ok when the pipe is not on show. I must admit, on heating systems I prefer a soldered joint - there is something reassuring about soldered joints. I am unsure to how a the push fit fittings would cope with the heat, expansion and contraction.
     

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