Table Saw - Changing Brush Motor to Induction Motor ?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by SJB, Nov 17, 2004.

  1. SJB

    SJB New Member

    Hi

    I've got a small hobby joiners workshop that I've been kitting out piece by piece. I use it to help me renovate my old house e.g. doors/windows/cabinets etc..

    This might be a naïve question, but here goes ...

    I already have a £100 table saw from B&Q (similar look to the ets-1525). I've added a decent fence system which has been a huge improvement.

    However, the saw only has a 1500W brush motor which struggles if cutting at max blade depth and/or in hardwoods. I've seen that you can buy 1-3HP induction motors for less than £100 and I wondered if it's possible to swap out the motors ? Any thoughts ?

    I know it might be better to buy a whole new machine - but I'm already well invested in this set up.

    Cheers.
     
  2. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Hi SJB,

    Trying to swap motors on a £100 machine would be a waste of time and effort, probably dangerous too.

    Spend your money on a good quality thin kerf blade by a manufacturer like Freud; in fact for £100 you could buy several.You will be amazed at the difference a good blade will make.

    Keith
     
  3. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    Don't forget you will have to get or make a thinner riving knife to suit the blade.

    Jason
     
  4. SJB

    SJB New Member

    thanks for the prompt feedback. I thought it might be dangerous - but still worth asking. I've got a 60 tooth blade from B&Q that's not branded and cost about £40 - so I'll see how i get on with the blade you recommend. thanks again.
    Steve
     
  5. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Steve, just had a look in the Freud catalogue and the smallest thin kerf blade I can find is 250mm diameter, so you may not find one to fit your saw.

    If you are trying to rip along the grain a 60 tooth blade isn't suitable. I don't know how big the blade is but 40 teeth is a max, 24 would probably be better for ripping and would put a lot less strain on the saw.
     
  6. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    heeelllooo sjb
    another point to notice if your parralel fence is tight at the back edge your blade will be cutting on the back edge as well which will overload the motor and slow it dowm does you saw come of load when the wood passes the front cutting edge
    i have a clark combination saw and i have to move the fence at the back to open up by 2mm more
    now from the sound of it you have it under control but just make shure there is no cutting when it leaves the front cutting edge

    big all
     
  7. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    If the saw takes 200mm blade the nearest thin kerf will be a dewalt 190mm cost about £18 about 20teeth.

    Jason
     
  8. SJB

    SJB New Member

    Thanks for the extra feedback. I think I need to invest in a 24 tooth and 40 tooth blade for ripping. I have a thicknesser, so no problems to finish the timber.

    Does anyone have experience of the 24 tooth nail cutting blades - i think they're freud - the ones with the exotic teeth patterns. I have some old roof joists I was planning to tidy up to build out my workbench etc. and I'm concerned there may be one or two nails I don't pick up. I'll watch out for the kickback :)

    At the risk of showing myself up - here's what probably contributed to my challenges - it might give you a laugh. As a beginner, I knew I wanted hardwood for some windows and I was sold Sapeelay (as the Meranti was behind some other timer stacks !) and I cut it down from 10ft x 9" x 3" lumber. Now that's hard work - especially with my current saw/blade. I learnt a lot along the way though :) I won't be doing that again - I'll buy the pre-cut stuff !

    I'm glad I've found this forum - now I'll be able to get advice on mad ideas and find out how to do it properly !

    Thanks again guys.
     
  9. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    The main difference between a standard blade and a "nail cutting" blade is that there is more of the blade material behing the TCT tip which stops it being ripped off when you hit a nail, it will still blunt the blade quickly.

    I've used the 190mm version of the dewalt one (SF # 60820) both in a hand held circular saw and in my table saw, it has a 2.0mm kerf (width of cut) and reduces the load on the saw, good for ripping hardwoods that are going through the planer/thickneser. Another advantage of the thin kerf is less material waste and therefore less saw dust.

    Jason
     
  10. bodget&scarpers

    bodget&scarpers New Member

    well think about this?
    most of the ol benches,never ad full length fences, they always stopped short of the riving knife,4 obvious reasons
    i:e case hardened stock, and u could also get many types of blade (swage 4 example) now it is all plate blades! but thank god they r now t c t
     

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