Anyone know how I can dismantle this hood? It has stopped extracting - only thing that works is the light and the pilot light for the first degree for extraction. I'd even be happy just to get it off the wall to enable me to install a new hood.
Remove the screws on the lower cowling, it then should lift up a bit & can then be remove, it slides over the top section. The flexible vent pipe should pull out of the socket on the hood. There are two pozi screws on back of hood, visible in your link, which fixes hood to wall,remove them, then you can lift hood off the two supporting screws higher up the wall. See this link.
The chimney cover may have been caulked to wall or plastered in so after removing screws, run a knife between cover and wall to free After removing, wall brackets will be visable and all will become apparent
Thanks very much, comrades - you've given me the courage and confidence to tackle it now. In the meantime, if I prove to be successful in removing it, do you have any idea as to how to diagnose it?
The most common failure of cooker hoods is the starter capacitor. They're really cheap if you buy them unbranded on eBay or Amazon. I recently got a quote for a starter capacitor from Elica for £26 + postage. I got an even better spec'ed generic one online for £2 including postage! Because starter capacitors are such a common failure component, it's worth mounting them 'externally' so they're easy to get to and replacement doesn't involve dismantling the whole hood, e.g. behind a panel or in the ducting housing. It does require extending the wire a bit, but that's only a one-off activity.
Odd development - the fan which had been left at the on position - started working again of its own volition.
If the fan is now working, it's obviously not the starter capacitor. The fact that it started on its own now points to the switch. (Incidentally the switch is the second most common failure on hobs, as they tend to get a lot of muck in them from steam and grease.) If it were mine, I'd disassemble and clean out the switch, paying great attention to the contacts, which I'd clean with alcohol. From your video it appears that switch is relatively easy to get to now the filter is removed.
I disassembled the switch and soaked its innards with alcohol for an hour. After letting it dry, there was no fan function at all. The pilot lights at setting 1, but tiny and dim at 2 and 3 - see video.
Budget? Extracting through wall I presume,if so most use 150mm ducting for best effiency & quietness, but you can reduce it down to 100mm if short distance. Also look at extraction rate, can vary a lot on hoods from low to very high. Got my last one from here. https://ao.com/cooking/cooker-hoods-and-extractor-fans
The knackered hood's ducting is still in place and exits through the wall on the right. I've been looking at this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cookology-...words=chimney+hood&refinements=p_72:419153031
Or this - can't see this difference apart from £2: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cookology-CMH605SS-Chimney-Stainless-Extractor/dp/B01E0AUU3M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1547827243&sr=8-5&keywords=chimney+hood&refinements=p_72:419153031
Now't wrong with that, like the LED lights, better than halogen,cool running. This one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cookology-...words=chimney+hood&refinements=p_72:419153031
I'm going to go for that - it's cheap but my 17 year-old hood is unbranded. Thanks very much for your time, knowledge and patience.
Preparing to install the new hood. I decided to test the fan before installation - anyone know if it's correct that only one of the black flaps opens during operation?