How to cut Minerva Stone worktop

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by R8SSO, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. R8SSO

    R8SSO New Member

    I’m looking to remove a double cupboard carcass and the worktop above it to create a space for a double fridge.

    I’ve had a couple of kitchen fitters turn down the job as they were uncomfortable cutting the existing work surface.

    The guy who came round wasn’t sure what blade to use and suggested I speak to a stone cutter first... I thought it was just a hard plastic resin worktop so not sure how that will help.

    The other issue was, as the worktop has been fixed in place already he didn’t know how to get a clean cut up to the wall.

    Any ideas on how I can get this done? I’ve had the side panels and connecting cupboard to create the alcove for months now and the Mrs is giving me so much grief.
     

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  2. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Screwfix Select

    If the cut-out is to enable you to fit a fridge in the space, then the newly cut edges wont be visible so won't need polishing. :)
    If it were mine, I'd just cut it as carefully as possible with a handheld angle grinder with a sharp diamond cutting disc. Cut it slightly too big first and then creep up to the line once the cut-out piece has been removed. You can then use a sander (random orbital or other) to round the edges .
    Warn the Mrs that dust will find its way into every part of the house, so she needs to be very sure that this is what she wants. No matter how strong a dust collection device you use, it will get everywhere. I've done something similar and actually erected a tent in the kitchen to contain the dust. The problem with that was that the tent soon became so full of dust that I couldn't see what I was doing.
     
  3. Philde

    Philde Member

    I had what looks like the identical material fitted in utility with cut our for butler sink. The fitter used a router with tungsten bit. Only lasted one job but gave a good finish.
     
  4. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    Minerva is solid Acrylic, so the last thing in the world you should ever use to cut it is an angle grinder whatever the cutting disc you use. The heat generated will radically alter the chemical composition of the top itself around the area of the cut, but even more importantly, it will change the colour of the top around the cut area as well.
    There are only 3 ways to cut solid Acrylic properly, router, circular saw and jigsaw. To use any of the proper methods OP, the worktop needs to be removed.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2018
  5. Richard_

    Richard_ Screwfix Select

    I've not used this material but I have cut worktops in situ.

    If you clamp a guide to the surface (a sheet of ply/chipboard / plank) with the correct offset for your bush and cutter then you will be able to route up to within 75mm of the back.

    Move the guide to the cut line and finish the last bit with a multiltool. Start on a show setting with a fresh blade and score a line on the surface. Once that is 5mm or so down you can speed up the tool.

    Then slide in the new cabinet. You have a tiny bit of tolerance if you apply a bead of silicone between the new unit and cut edge.

    Practice with a couple of cuts well away from the edge before you commit!
     
  6. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    Absolutely will not work with Acrylic tops, not only that, if you look at the OP's pic, there is Acrylic upstand as well. The worktop needs to come out to do the job.
     
  7. Richard_

    Richard_ Screwfix Select

    If it can be cut with jigsaw, then I'd have thought a mutlitool blade would also cut it?
     
  8. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select


    Don't be stupid. Have you not read anything i have posted in this thread ? HEAT will ruin an Acrylic worktop. A Multitool will ruin an Acrylic top within seconds. If you know nothing about what you are posting, then much better you actually don't post anything at all.
     
  9. longboat

    longboat Screwfix Select

    You could cut the entire section from start to finish with a fine toothed handsaw if, woebetold, a mere mortal was granted half an hour of spare time.
    Another half an hour to polish up with a power sander and what do you know.....

    Job done.
     
  10. fillyboy

    fillyboy Screwfix Select

  11. Richard_

    Richard_ Screwfix Select

    Aha - so the blade would get too hot? So you must have to take care with the other tools, they can easily heat up too.

    What a pain, a router would get to 60mm from the back edge, then it's just a matter of getting rid of that last bit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2018
  12. StoneMan

    StoneMan New Member

    I have cut a lot of Minerva. It's actually mineral powder all bound together with acrylic resin. It is slightly heat resistant but any well overheated tools will damage it. It can be cut with a diamond blade if you are gentle, not so much the marbled vein type but the quartz look type cuts relatively easy with a good blade. I generally use a router which is the recommended method. A tungsten bit will last a couple of couple of kitchens on the marble vein type but you will just about get one on the gritty ones but they are not expensive. A router eats through it is quick when compared with cutting marble or granite. You will need to attach the hoover or you will end up with a kitchen full of artificial snow, fortunately the waste is quite coarse and is easier to clean up than stone dust. Clamp or hot glue a guide for each cut, you will need it. One tip, don't mix the resin in the bag as they recommend, when the joint is sanded back you will often find some air bubbles in the resin which will need filling. If you mix it in the bag it will all be hard and you will have none left for filling any voids. Altogether it's not really easy to do but miles easier than working with granite, marble or quartz. Good luck
     
  13. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I've done a similar thing. Doable if careful.
     
    StoneMan likes this.
  14. SukhvinderAtthi

    SukhvinderAtthi New Member

    I have a Minvera work top that needs an Ohio Undermount sink fitted. Those Ive asked are too touchy to do it incase they mess it up. Any ideas whom I can approach to get his job done ?
     
  15. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    The obvious question is, is the worktop already fitted and is the undermount sink a retro fit ?
     
  16. SukhvinderAtthi

    SukhvinderAtthi New Member

    No the worktop isn’t fitted. I’ll need the under mount sink - taps - draining grooves and hot rods routed.
    I’m based in Birmingham looking for possible tradesman to do this. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
     

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