I bought myself a dewalt track saw for a kitchen install. I’ve not owned one before so I don’t have anything to compare with but it doesn’t feel right to me. I cut the rubbers on the tracks as the manual says then just cracked on so I don’t know if there was something else I needed to do. In a nutshell, when I use the saw, I’ve got to push quite hard to get it along the track much more than I do with a circular saw with the same material. On most cuts too, you can see the curved outline of the blade at various points along the cut. Perhaps where I’ve stopped and moved forward again. It sound a little odd too like it’s fighting hard to get through the timber. Any guidance is appreciated
Not taking the mick but check the blade is on the correct way round - ie, direction of rotation markings on blade are spinning with the motor I treated myself to a nice Freud blade, 60 tooth, cuts lovely and looks fantastic to with the red and gold paint job I just assumed that the fancy gold lettering would sit on the outside so can be seen, in all its glory Imagine my disappointment on its maiden cut when it worked like a pig …… yeah,,,,,,, I had the blade round the wrong way !!!
To be fair I haven’t checked the blade. It was already fitted so I assumed it was on the right way. I have been cutting end panels which were fine but I’ve been cutting panel doors today and it’s struggling. It looks like it has plenty teeth so I assume it’s for fine cuts.
I only have experience of my evolution track saw but on mine it has two little adjusting cams to adjust it closer to the track. Worth checking it’s not being pulled too tight against it maybe? Otherwise maybe blade too fine? What are the doors made of?
I'd go along with what dave and truck have said. A mixture of too tight cams along with the blade the wrong way round says to me the exact problem you are seeing. We've all done it and anyone that says they havn't is a liar The problem for you now though is that the blade is completely knackered.............go get a new one and put it in the correct way round.
The tool is fine, it's operator error. You're trying to cut a solid piece of presumably 35 mm thick oak in one pass with a fine blade. It's going to struggle, set the depth on the saw to half an inch then complete your cut in three passes. And tweak the cams as the other guys have said.
I assume it’s oak veneer over a chipboard core but you’re right either way. I was using mine most recently on solid oak worktops 40mm thick. 2-3 passes were comfortable. It would do it in one but clearly wasn’t happy and that wasn’t with a particularly fine blade.
I changed the blade on my TS55 virtually as soon as I got it because I found the original was just too fine for much of what I was doing. Can't off hand remember what is on it now (a genuine festool blade tho) but it has fewer teeth and is definitely easier to use with IMHO no loss of performance
Cutting doors down is often predominantly rip cutting. The panther blade usually gives a lovely cut. .
Thanks for the advice. The blade is definitely on the right way so it must just be me. For the track however, how tight are you supposed to have the cams. I’ve tightened them enough just so that when you push it won’t move a mm left or right but still pushes fairly easy. If I slacken them a little, it glides better but can move it very slightly.
Is the material pulling onto the riving knife? I have the dewalt, and the default blade is 2mm kerf, I have changed to a Freud blade and they are only 1.7mm. Even though very minimal, I can still feel the drag so have removed the knife
I’ll try a different blade but there was/is an issue with the kerf knife in that it was catching on the materials and I couldn’t get a start. I bent It very slightly so it missed the wood so I don’t know if that’s part of the problem. Apart from the blade.