Flooring clamps for solid wood flooring

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Datacom, Nov 5, 2006.

  1. Datacom

    Datacom New Member

    I need a set of clamps to fit my new oak flooring, there is a set on screwfix but they look a bit poop, I also looked at some bessey clamps, can anyone recommend some?

    Shall i go for the more expensive bessey clamps or are the screwfix ones okay? any suggestions greatly appreciated!
     
  2. audi-evo

    audi-evo Active Member

    depends how often you intend to use them, also what type of oak flooring is it?
    Clamps are for tongue and grooved engineered flooring and there is very little of it around anymore.
     
  3. Shedmen

    Shedmen New Member

    As audi evo says depends on what you are doing to types for clamps if you are fixing boards on joists are

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=20908&name=799011&usersearch=1&sfile=1&jump=0

    and

    http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/AMFC153||AMFC153@cAll@bAll|0|user|1,0,0,1|2|

    The more traditional style of floor cramp is currently at a good price record ones are around the £100 mark.
    But it depends what you are doing

    or the bessy route

    http://besseytools.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=2_15&productsid=244

    Shedmen
     
  4. Datacom

    Datacom New Member

    its 150mm solid oak planks, but they have a tongue and groove. and they're being glued to a concrete screed so ratchet straps it is then!
     
  5. Tinderstick

    Tinderstick New Member

    My boards were not t&g and I used the Rutland-type ones on Shedmen's link - they did an excellent job!

    It was a one-off for me so I hired a couple from HSS...
    http://www.hss.com/g/4420/Floor_BoardClamp.html

    Not used the others so can't comment there
     
  6. Measure2cut1

    Measure2cut1 New Member

    Use an off cut. Rip saw it length ways so it has a groove and about 25mm of solid. Then mate the offcut groove to the board's tongue and clamp that tight.
     
  7. paulo333

    paulo333 Member

    May be spelling out the obvious - but this could be of interest to someone not wanting to invest more in tools....

    I recently laid a solid oak floor - approx 30 sq. metres. Lounge/diner and hallway continuous with lots of little edges and indents. Owner had already laid 6mm ply onto exisitng floorboards. I pre-drilled holes and secret nailed by hand. After the first 20 minutes it was fast (with none of that explosive nailer-noise in my ear all day).

    For cramps I used a couple of substantial wedges cut from 3"x2"; nailed one to the floor and wedged the board tight with the other before nailing the board. Again it was fast, worked a treat and cost next to nothing.

    No doubt if you're doing this on a very regular basis the nailers, cramps etc. are essential kit but I do floors infrequently enough to stick with this.
     
  8. paulo333

    paulo333 Member

    May be spelling out the obvious - but this could be of interest to someone not wanting to invest more in tools....

    I recently laid a solid oak floor - approx 30 sq. metres. Lounge/diner and hallway continuous with lots of little edges and indents. Owner had already laid 6mm ply onto exisitng floorboards. I pre-drilled holes and secret nailed by hand. After the first 20 minutes it was fast (with none of that explosive nailer-noise in my ear all day).

    For cramps I used a couple of substantial wedges cut from 3"x2"; nailed one to the floor and wedged the board tight with the other before nailing the board. Again it was fast, worked a treat and cost next to nothing.

    No doubt if you're doing this on a very regular basis the nailers, cramps etc. are essential kit but I do floors infrequently enough to stick with this.
     
  9. paulo333

    paulo333 Member

    Ooops!! Managed to post twice. Better stick to nailing...
     

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