I need some advice regarding power tools. First Is the dewalt 712 mitre sliding mitre saw, ok for cutting skirting, mouldings,edgeing, etc? Second Does anyone know if the bosch GFF2AA biscuit jointer is any good? Third What are the basics to using a biscuit jointer? Do you rim down the biscuit depending on the material thickness you are joining? How do you know what biscuit sizes to use? Is there are general rule for biscuit sizes, depth of biscuit joints, etc? Sorry if my questions seem stupid but i am a electrician not a carpenter. mike
The important thing about biscuit jointers is accuracy and uniformity in the slots cut. Cheaper jointers might allow slight movement in the fence system which can result in surface irregularities when you join boards. Having said that I have the cheapo Ferm one which has done good accurate work now for a couple of years. I would think the Bosch one would be fine. If making up a panel out of a number of boards lay them up firstly to get the best faces and alternate the annual rings in the boards to help reduce cupping. Mark out your cuts across both boards so that you can centre the cut. Adjust the ** fence depth so the cut slot is in the middle of the board edges. I usually use the biggest size biscuits preferring the deeper joint they give. I snip them off if they are oversize for a joint and I do not have to break out the face side with the slot cut. On procedure it is all about sequence and alignment. Make sure you cut from the top side on all pieces and centre on your marks. You place your slots uniformly along the length or where there is a suggestion of warp. Good cramps to hold it right whilst gluing is also key. Just tight enough to see beads of glue squeeze out. Hope this helps DWD
i have the dw712 great bit off kit you can get it for the mid £300s now on the buiscuts i use 20s[22mm wide] for every thing 22mm and abouve and 10s[18mm wide] down to 15mm you could at a push go down 12mm [if joining on the face]but you couldnt use a continuous slot without laying the buiscuts end to end dont forget you can use wafers [continous strip ]or 4mm ply cut to width big all
Thanks very helful and informative, a pretty comprehensive answer. Can i just clarify a couple of things to make sure i understand. If the dw712 with a fine blade is ok for cutting skirts, what is the best way to cut and mitre architraves, mouldings and trims etc? If you were corner joining 22mm thick material and you used no20 biscuits (22mm), you would set the biscuit jointer to no20 setting or 11mm, and the jointer will only cut 11mm into the material, and wont break out face or you wont need to trim the biscuits. Then the same for 18mm material except with the jointer on the no10 setting or set to 9mm. Is that right?
i have a freud pro 48 tooth blade in my dw712 and its perfect for skirting ect you set it for the buiscut size [on my ferm at least] the settings on my machine are "s" 13mm depth "d" =15mm 20 =11mm 10=9mm 0= 6mm "max =16mm give or take 1mm just make shure you mark the end off the work and stop the slot a few mm before you reach there always cut your slots to the outside [face edge] so when you place the fence on the end to cut the inside slot at the corner it will be flush if you dont and the fence isnt set exactly half the thickness of the wood tou will get a step you can of course by using 4mm ply with a tapered edge use the cutter to groove for the back to fit in but i personaly use 6mm ply or mdf on anything abouve around 2ft in any direction big all
Thats good news that with a freud pro 48 tooth blade you can cut architraves, trims etc. With a bit of luck my local screwfix will have one in stock. When you say always cut your slots to the outside [face edge] so when you place the fence on the end to cut the inside slot at the corner it will be flush if you dont and the fence isnt set exactly half the thickness of the wood tou will get a step Do you maen to cut the slot right through the thickness of the material?
no you only cut around half the depth face edge is the finnished face/edge showing you always machine from the same face so components match think of your components at the corner you want the end of one piece to neatly join the other bit without a step so if you lay the components with one bit up in the air like a letter "L" the end grain becomes a face edge for your purpose of cutting a groove or slot for joining if its say 18mm thick and you cut a 4mm slot slightly off centre with 6mm one side and 8mm the other unless you cutfrom the same finished face you will get a step of the difference big all