Hi can anyone recommend the easiest worktop jig to use I have been a joiner for 10 years and want to start kitchen fitting i have never tryed doing a worktop joint can anyone shed so light and info thanks
I would suggest a Trend jig, not the cheapest but one of the best. You should try a couple of joints ( no not that sort ) before you try to do one for a client on site. You will need a good quality 1/2" router, say Makita 3612 or deWalt 625 and a set of 1/2" x 12.7mm , router bits and a 30mm router template guide. then you'll need some dog bones, use 3 per joint. HTH
Thanks i have herd of someone else about the trend jig are they really easier than the others?don't worry I've given them joints up a while back I have just bought a makita router just need a decent easy to use jig
hi, the trend comb1 jig is the best, but mainly because it is slightly thicker than most, and can do radius, etc. If you are just going to be doing standard cuts use a howdens jig which is a hell of a lot cheaper. I think magnet also do one. One thing to remember when doing the cut is to make sure the front edge does not flick off. you basically need to watch the spin direction of your cutter, and use common sense as to whether this will cause it to flick off. Its a bit hard to explain, but pretty easy to do. good luck!
kf1, is trying to say is with a clockwise rotation on the cutter, the waste should be to the right as it cuts in on the left and out on the right
Thanks for the reply kf1 that is good info cheers i'm gonna price up a trend one tommoror and shall take alook at the howdens jig thanks again
I use a trend jig. Just a basic one though (don't see the need for one that does radius and other cuts as I just make jigs to suit out of mdf when needed). I have also made my own jig for the 3 bolt recesses as the trend jig only has 2.
Oh yes forgot to add, check the jig will cut upto 900mm tops if you intend doing breakfast bars etc. The previous answer to cutting the tops is correct, you should always cut into the worktop front edge with cutter spinning into the joint. So on some cuts you cut the worktop rightway up and others you cut upside down. All to avoid breakout. Buy either quality router bits and use 2-3 times or mid quality and throw away after 1 use. Router speed will be about 3 or 4 on the Makita, depending on the cutter and the worktop.
The Ray Girling info that Mailee posted is very good. This one's a good help too : http://www.kitchensfitted.co.uk/KitchenArticles/article5.php
As Busy Builder has stated, use good router bits a couple of times. If you plan to be doing kitchens regurlarly, it is worth investing in a trend rotatip cutter. With this, the actual cutter part ( tungsten carbide tip) is replaceable, so works out a lot cheaper. You can get a pack of ten cutter heads on ebay for about 27 quid. The heads are edged on 4 sides, so can be turned around, giving you essentially 20 top quality cutters for 27 quid. I think the actual Rotatip cutter is about 50 quid. Hope this is of some use!
Another trick to extend the life of your cutter:- After you've clamped your jig and made your first pass with the router, with the jig still in place, carefully (carefully!) cut through the worktop with a jigsaw, along the centre of the router cut; result - with half the waste already cut away, your router bit lasts twice as long. HTH, Pete
Re: replaceable tip cutters, I prefer Versofix from Wealden Tools. Good quality, cheaper & excellent service / turnaround time from Wealden : http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_2__shank243.html
I use the trend jig too. It probably the best all rounder & small for easy storage. I have to admit I can do a mason's mitre without buying a jig anyway. Just make a one off jig from 18mm MDF & use a 40mm bearing cutter with a bearing on the top. The bolt connecter recessess can be cut using a 32mm spade bit, a hand saw & a chisel. This method is fine if you can't afford a jig for now, but a jig is definately the way forawrd.