Oak Flooring Question

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by scraper, Oct 26, 2009.

  1. scraper

    scraper New Member

    Good morning guys,
    I looked at a job Friday, which was to lay 120mm x18mm solid lacquered Oak in random lengths, approx 50m2. I don't do a lot of flooring but have worked it out on a day rate.
    I was wandering if anyone could give me a guide price for fitting per m2, that I could my price against & does this price include doorways, beading e.t.c
    The job is in Sonning, Berks.
    Also, does any one know of a hire shop locally that hires out pnuematic floor nailers
    Many thanks
     
  2. Richard1957

    Richard1957 New Member

    Hi Scraper.

    What you charge will all depend on how good the sub floor is,how many door cuts there are, are you beading out or taking off the skirting etc etc.

    On a pre finished I would suggest that you price it as follows. £10 - £15 p.s.m for fitting the floor, not including any subfloor prep. Remember if you have to lay the new floor in the same direction as the existing boards, or if the existing floor is some cheep chipboard then you will need to nail down some 6 or 8mm ply first. £15 to cut each door. Beading, charge about £1.50 pm plus the cost of the beading. Don't forget the threshold bars!! Watch the temp and humidity, some of this prefinished stuff comes in very dry and can expand quite a bit once layed.Take some readings of what you are laying onto and if they are high get some heating on and let it dry out before you go ahead otherwise the boards will cup and poss blow!!! Do not exceed about 8m width across the face of the boards. If its two adjoining rooms it would be wise to put in an expansion gap at the doorway if the boards are running parallel to the door, this can be hidden with a threshold bar.
     
  3. Just like to emphasise the need to condition the boards before fitting.
     
  4. scraper

    scraper New Member

    Thanks for the advice fellas,
    Flooring has been stored in the room for a couple of weeks, so should be o.k & floor will need to be plyed., do you glue + nail or just nail?
    Client has now decided to rip off the skirtings so no beading needed. Price worked out at £12 per m2 so not too far out.
    Thanks again.
     
  5. Richard1957

    Richard1957 New Member

    Glue the header joints but not along the length of the boards. Or if you mean fix down by gluing then there is no need to nail as well...BUT....quite often this prefinished stuff has some twisted boards so you may need to nail or cramp up to keep the line straight. If its cheap stuff then your gonna have allot of short lengths, so watch the tollerances in the boards, especially on the chinese stuff. Don't grade it out just lay it as it comes ( unless the board is really bad) otherwise you'll get 75% of the floor down and realise all you have left to lay is the stuff you have already rejected which is not good...
     
  6. scraper

    scraper New Member

    sorry Rich,
    I meant do you glue down the ply subfloor. Cheers for the advice anyway.
     
  7. Richard1957

    Richard1957 New Member

    No problem. What is the existing sub floor??? Tell me what your faced with and I will tell you how best to do it!!! Is there underfloor heating, if so, water or electric? Do you know where the services ( Plumbing and Electric)run under the floor? Existing floor, wood or screed? What thickness of ply are you putting down? Etc Etc.
     
  8. Richard1957

    Richard1957 New Member

    Just a foot note, re the comment by Ex-Kitchen fitter. He is correct the boards should be acclimatised. However just putting the wood on site still in the packs won't do it. As this is solid timber it really needs the packaging removed, opened up and spread out so that the air can get all round the boards. With engineered or semi-solid its not such a big thing as they will hardly move anyhow.
     
  9. scraper

    scraper New Member

    Thanks again for your help Rich,
    Told client to get packs open, won't be fitting for a couple of weeks. Existing floor is floor boards nailed to joist with an air gap underneath, was going to use 9mm ply, 1 gas pipe which I can trace. In an earlier post, laying a dpm was advised, would you suggest one?
    Cheers
     
  10. Richard1957

    Richard1957 New Member

    Hi.

    Yeah, for a belt and braces job you should use a D.P.M...BUT!!! Not a poly or plastic one. Junckers do one, I think it is called "sylvathane", it was like a builders paper with a layer of tar in the middle. If you get in touch with a Junckers distributor they will be able to tell you. The idea being that the tar formed a seal round the nail. Poly or plastic won't, so you may as well not bother with them.
    9mm ply should be fine, if your in doubt about other pipes or electrics i would suggest that you use a porta nailer with an extra shoe that will decrease the angle at which the nail is punched in and reduce the depth of penetration into the floor below.
     
  11. scraper

    scraper New Member

    Finished floor today, just wanted to say thank you for the good advice fellas.
     
  12. JonnyNitro

    JonnyNitro New Member

    Did you bother with a DPM, and if so which one and at what price per sq m.
     
  13. molewill

    molewill New Member

    £15 psm for floor everything eles is an extra
     

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