Tips on stripping gloss

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Jay20VT, Nov 11, 2009.

  1. Jay20VT

    Jay20VT New Member

    Hi all, I am looking for an easy solution to stripping gloss off my exisiting door frames. A couple months ago I gutted the house and took off all the old architraves and skirting. Now I have new architraves and skirting but don't fancy painting them in gloss. I hate the stuff. Trouble is the inside of the door frames are still coated in the old gloss and I have brand new laminates and beautiful skimmed and painted walls. What I want is an easy solution to stripping back the remaining gloss to bear wood so I can prime and paint it with a non gloss paint and paint the new architraves and skirting the same. Anyone?
     
  2. Hi Jay,

    Am a bit confused as to why you want to strip the paint when you are planning to prime and paint again ?

    Is the current finish lumpy / gritty / full of runs ?

    Either way id give it a good beating down with some 60, then 80, coat with undercoat, fill etc and topcoat in usual manner - unless im missing something id say its not worth the mess of stripping off the current coating.
     
  3. Hi Jay,

    Am a bit confused as to why you want to strip the paint when you are planning to prime and paint again ?

    Is the current finish lumpy / gritty / full of runs ?

    Either way id give it a good beating down with some 60, then 80, coat with undercoat, fill etc and topcoat in usual manner - unless im missing something id say its not worth the mess of stripping off the current coating.
     
  4. Jay20VT

    Jay20VT New Member

    Hi there, Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I am a bit of a novice and if its not worth stripping it back then I guess thats a bonus. I was under the impression I could not paint a water based paint over gloss and that the gloss should be removed first. There is nothing wrong with the glossed surfaces so I guess in the respect I have no worries. You mentioned giving it a good beating with 60 and then 80? Could you be a little specific as I dont know any painter lingo.
    Basically, what do I need to do to the gloss surface before I apply a coat of Matt water based paint which adheres properly over the gloss?
     
  5. Jay20VT

    Jay20VT New Member

    just to be clear, I want to do away with painting over with gloss, I want to paint all frames and architraves in water based paint!
     
  6. painterbird

    painterbird New Member

    60 / 80 grit sand paper jay...haha its the green stuff you want from bandq in a roll ...that novice talk from me to you!...if you rub down with that and i mean rub down do not tickle it lol..you should have a lovely finish ready for undercoating..
     
  7. sorry - yes - 60/80 grit sand paper - give it a good rub down so that you have no more sheen. The Water Based should stick from there.

    Can i ask why you are using a water based matt on woodwork ? one dirty finger or a ring rubbed past will leave a permanent mark !

    would you not consider using an oil based eggshell ? or even a water based if you are anti oil ? will be much tougher, the oil based is scrubable, wont yellow and in my opinion gives a quality finish with 2 coats.
     
  8. Jay20VT

    Jay20VT New Member

    Hi, thanks for breaking it down for me. Yes the reason why I want to stay away from oil based is purely down to choice. The new architraves and skirting are fixed and have already be primed, ready for final coat. The whole of downstairs is covered in a matt paint and the skirting looks good as it is with just the primer on it. I get you point about the marks and its a good point. So, you would recommend a water based eggshell right? Could you give me examples of a brilliant white paint I could use on architraves and skirting but not oil based. Also, where I have scrubbed down the exisiting gloss should I still use the Dulux supergrip stuff? Thanks
     
  9. no worries Jay

    id recommend an oil based eggshell as it is much more durable and in my opinion provides a better finish. However if you are adamant on water based then dulux do a quick drying eggshell that is water based that will meet your requirements and be much more durable than the matt.

    With regard to the supergrip - ive never used that before, but it looks like a good product to ensure adhesion between the rubbed down gloss and the water bourne eggsmell.

    If it was me id use an oil based undercoat over the rubbed down gloss and put 2 topcoats of the egg over this - however again if you want to stick with the water based then you can get a quick drying primer undercoat which you could use instead of the oil.

    One more thing - wipe the surfaces down with a damp rag after you have rubbed them down - this removes any fine dust left on the surface and stops it being in your paint !
     
  10. Jay20VT

    Jay20VT New Member

    Hi, some great tips. Thank you very much for your help on this. Just one last thing, there are so many types of paint brushes on the market and usually I opt for the cheapest, what would be the best type and make for this job?
     
  11. no worries buddy

    brushes - id buy the best you can afford - cheap brushes tend to 'scrub' paint on due to lack of bristle and also lose a lot of themselves into your paintwork. If i was you id buy the hamilton perfection box set they sell on this site and look after them .... link .....

    http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32262/Decorating-Sundries/Paintbrushes/Hamilton-Perfection-Box-Set-5-Pc

    this pack gives you an inch, inch and a half and a two inch. you'll probably find the inch and two inch will be the men for the job - but the inch and half is good middle ground !
     
  12. Goodwill

    Goodwill Member

    Hi Jay,

    If you are using a water borne paint then you will obtain the best results by using good quality synthetic filament brushes such as Purdy or Wooster. Hamilton also make a synthetic filament brush in their Perfection range which I am currently trying out.

    Bristle brushes are best when used in oil/solvent based paints. You are likely to get noticeable brush lines using a pure bristle brush with a water borne paint.

    Water borne paints often dry very quickly, depending on the conditions, so speed is of the essence. Many painters sometimes use a small amount of a paint conditioner, such as Floetrol, to ****** the drying. On larger surfaces use a mohair or simulated mohair roller, then lay-off with your synthetic brush.

    Try Purdy Monarch Elite, these brushes are sold by Screwfix. Read the instructions regarding priming new brushes and roller sleeves before use.

    Cheers
     
  13. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Use Dulux Diamond Satinwood using Purdy synthetic brushes, really tough waterbased product. Apply 2 coats.
     
  14. Teuchter

    Teuchter New Member

    Hi Jay.

    Water-based is waaaay better than oil-based in a number of ways; easier to apply, no smell, quick drying, brushes (and spills...) wash up with water, AND THEY REMAIN BRILLIANT WHITE.

    Oil-based is tougher and...er...that's it.

    Ok, water-based doesn't cover as well either, so will need more coats. On a previously white surface, 2 coats will probably do.

    But, did I mention water-based stuff REMAINS BRILLIANT WHITE...?
     
  15. ah jeez...

    opinion i guess - but as far as i am concerned (from a professional standpoint) oil * on water on every level.

    its not easier to apply, it doesnt cover as well, it doesnt flow on as nice, brush marks are harder to lay off or blend and the finish is not as it should be.

    The only pro is the non yellowing aspect, and i guess for DIYers the washing brushes out in water - although dont most just bin theirs after use ?

    [Edited by: admin]
     
  16. Teuchter

    Teuchter New Member

    Iywajdp, you are....absolutely right :)

    Yes, oil-based is a nicer product to use and gives a far superior finish. It's tougher and covers much better.

    These are all +ves, no question. However, I would argue that its single biggest flaw is a fatal one - it just doesn't stay white.

    As I found to my considerable chagrin when I had to repaint 9 new panelled doors I'd fitted and painted only 3 years previously. I was well pi**ed off at the dull colour they'd become.

    A quick rub down and a couple of coats of 'Flawless' and they're back to looking sparky.

    (C'mon - much easier to clean up too... :p)
     

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