Insulating Solid Floor in Kitchen

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Andyh83, May 24, 2010.

  1. Andyh83

    Andyh83 New Member

    Hi Guys,

    Would be greatful for a bit of advice.

    I am currently renovating my flat, which is a ground floor 1930's conversion. It is a traditional build, with suspended timber flooring - that is apart from the kitchen which is a solid concrete floor, which sits approx 100mm lower than the rest of the flat.

    I have been contemplating what to do with the flooring as ideally the floor needs to be insulated. I have the ceiling height to raise the floor the 100mm to match rest of the flat so thats not a problem. I also need to consider pipe runs for both central heating and gas for cooker etc. My initial thoughts is to lay a DPM over current finish (terracotta tiles), then using celotex GA3000 (between 50-75mm) and then applying a chipboard floating floor?? This would then be finished with tiles. As i have not done this type of work before i would be greatful for some advice?

    Thanks in advance.

    Andy
     
  2. whitshaw

    whitshaw New Member

    use 75mm kingspan insulation boards with 18mm chipboard flooring, on top then lay 6mm ply on top of that in preperation for your tile flooring.
     
  3. hallbeck

    hallbeck New Member

    I wouldn't use a floating floor if you are tiling.

    Batten out at 400mm centres with batten to match your required height. Then kingspan between them - then ply on top.
     
  4. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    heeelllooo and welcome Andyh83

    other points to note you will need new doors as you cannot remove 4 inches

    you will have to fully remove all your kitchen units

    your electric sockets may need raising

    you may have to replace a window with safety glass if it now falls within around 900mm of the floor i think it is

    raising drainage pipes could effect above floor drainage in adjoining rooms



    big all
     
  5. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    your doors will now be a non standard size so may have to be custom made or expensivly alterd unless you raise the door opening
     
  6. ian anderson

    ian anderson New Member

    Might be worth considering why the floor is lower in the first place......

    You never know, might just have been fashion, but there may be other more structural reasons, although I cant think of one off hand, unless it used to be a garage! (unlikely in a flat...)

    Just a thought.......
     
  7. Andyh83

    Andyh83 New Member

    Thanks for all the input guys. I understand the reasons behind not tiling on floating floor. I was looking at possible laying the insulation and then screeding over, but then i would have to include some form of underfloor heating otherwise it would leave the surface pretty cold.

    The kitchen is a complete shell at the moment so it will be completely re-wired/new pipework runs etc so thankfully i dont have to worry about fitting this floor in a round much.

    Thanks
    Andy
     
  8. ian anderson

    ian anderson New Member

    Having said that about not tiling on floating floors......it's not impossible!

    The flexible grouts these days are pretty good and we have never had any problems tiling onto wooden floors. Just remember to use the flexible grout too!

    The adhesive is pretty weird stuff, the last lot we used was purple and looked like it was made out of re-cycled tyres but it made a good job and the client was v happy!
    Cheers
    Ian
    p.s.
    T&G chipboard with glued joints on top of insulation on a perfectly flat floor gives a pretty firm base all things considered.
     
  9. the old un

    the old un New Member

    Go the chipboard route, but dont tile, use kardean, warmer, softer, quieter, flexible and easier to keep clean. Believe me.
    old un.
     
  10. beecee

    beecee New Member

    Andyh83: how is the build going?

    i have a very similar idea to yours: i want a thin, low thermal mass UFH system and i think a Celotex/cement board/slate tile "floating" floor will do the job....

    the system i want is:
    10cm Celotex FF4000 (high compressive strength) over existing slab (joints are tape or metal plating.) below...
    10 lengths of 8mm copper tubing laid into cut or crushed channels packed with a drymix/pug/biscuit (something that wont attack copper via galvanic corrosion). under....
    25mm hardibacker/wonderboard/durock cement board under...
    14mm grey slate

    all contacts are made with flexible, heat resistant adhesive---perhaps leaving out the celotex-to-slab adhesion so it will "float".

    control is via TRV and a UFH mix valve.

    heating will be uneven, but controllable and effective for the space---at the expense of all the benefits of a high thermal mass: i want the fastest heatup time as possible and the thinnest build.
     
  11. tiredman

    tiredman New Member

    have you considered polypipe overlay ufh on kitchen floor this can be directly tiled upon,still need some insulate under though.
     
  12. bcee

    bcee New Member

    ive looked into Thermoboard, its just so pricey.... (and i think ill get alot more heat out of copper w/ aluminum diffuser than with poly---plastic is actually a good heat insulator)
     

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