Which router for Kitchen work surfaces - and how to do it?

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Cornish Crofter, Aug 3, 2004.

  1. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    I need to install some kitchen worksurfaces and want to router the joints using a jig.

    Which router should I use? Most cost effective

    What type of jig should I buy? I have seen a number of laminate ones for around half the price of the steel ones.

    How do you actually go about doing it?

    Thanks in advance

    CC
     
  2. herman gelmet

    herman gelmet New Member

    get a really big router 1/2 inch collet. Get the best jig you can afford and follow the destructions. And practise for a day with lots of off-cuts.
     
  3. Dead Eye

    Dead Eye New Member

    You need at least a 1800w router to give a good cut, make several passes keeping the router square and to the front of the jig. On your last pass cut the full depth and keep the router against the back edge of the jig. I also use a new cutter every 4 joints.
     
  4. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    Lots of posts on here about this - a few very recent ones - look for worktops/ jigs/ etc.

    As far as buying the kit goes, well I hired my jig for £25 for a week. Massive bit of kit, and unless you are going into the trade you are unlikely to use it more than 4 times!
    Router is another matter - You could buy, or again hire one - advise latter unless you are likely to use it for other stuff. You will however need to buy some cutters.

    As far as doing it goes - it's pretty easy.
    Things to remember:
    1) The jig cutout is wider than the collet. You keep the collet pressed against the front edge of the collet (i.e. the one furthest from you) and rout from Left to Right making sure that the postformed edge is on the Left (never rout out at the postformed edge else it will chip off!)
    Not sure about the above advice of pressing the router against the back edge on the last cut. If you could manage it you would end up with a lip of laminate! The cutter will be working against you anyway to stay on the other edge.

    2) Don't be too concerned with getting the lengths right to the mm. Remember you will be covering the junction between the worktop and wall with tiles, so you have a certain amount of leeway. If you end up with exact fitting worktops, it makes manoeuvring them really difficult. Cut to length with circular saw, cutting from underside into the postformed edge again. Try on offcut to check your blade does not chip the laminate.

    3) Don't cut too deep. The deeper you cut, the more the router will pull, and can move the jig (even when clamped tight!). Wolf's advice was no more than 5mm a pass - i.e 7-8 passes for a 38mm worktop.

    For cutouts you can use a circular saw to save the router blades. Personally i would stick with the router - just do your joins first. Circular saw is great for the straight bits, problem is the corners - whatever you do, don't use a jigsaw anywhere near the worktops!!

    As for practise - one join was enough for me to get used to the jig and the router. Wouldn't spend a day on it!


    Have fun!
    Tango
     
  5. Chippy John

    Chippy John New Member

    Dead Eye is correct about the cutting sequence, the last pass with the router should be for the full depth of the cut against the edge of the template which will form the final face of the joint.

    Not many people bother to do it like that but if you read the destructions with the jig it almost certainly says something similar.

    One thing you have to watch with the cheaper templates is that they tend to bend once you have cut through the w'top, this can lead to the joint being undercut, so make sure the top is well supported, including the piece you are cutting off


    Nothing wrong with jigsaws for cutouts as long as it's a good one with a new blade, a cheap one will probably wander all over the place and be next to useless.
     
  6. joinerjohn

    joinerjohn New Member

    Just one final point CC . Let the router stop before you lift it out of the jig ,otherwise you could damage the jig beyond repair !!!!
     
  7. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

    Only one point to make is to correct TM-
    1) The jig cutout is wider than the collet. You keep the collet pressed against the front edge of the collet <

    It's not the collet but the guide bush you put against the jig.

    The collet shouldn't be in contact with anything apart from the router with the collet nut holding it in and the cutter shank inside the collet. ;)
     
  8. DaveM

    DaveM New Member

    Hi,
    I done my Dad's worktops with a jig I bought from screwfix (laminate) and hired a big trend router. I practiced on the old worktop we took out and then done the new one.

    Minimum of four passes and tried to used the sharp piece of the bit for the final cut into the laminate.

    We found that the shape of the wall did not allow a perfect fit, but tiles were going to cover all the gaps anyway.

    For cutting the worktops to length, we used a circular saw to save the router bits.

    Cheers
    Dave
     
  9. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    Yeah - had my front and back's mixed up. Couldn't understand what yer was on about, but now I get it.

    My jigsaw ain't cheap, but it ain't pricey either. Axminster's own model. Fully signed up member of the rambler's association though.

    Dewy - you got me! Too many beers I think re-reading that post!

    Tango
     
  10. Good routers are freud and Makita

    Don't overwork the cutters and always buy the best

    Also buy a couple of good quality clamps and four plastic foldaway tressels
     
  11. sarah's bloke

    sarah's bloke New Member

    if its only the one job you're doin, go down to B+Q and get a router from them, they stock dewalt and makita at the big stores now as well as freud cutters. when you're done take it back and tell them it shakes too much or somethin technical ( they only employ complete retards, so they wont question you!) then they'll give you your money back! you might even get away with 'accidently' forgettin to put the accesory kit back in the box! (i've got a whole box of spare blades and brushes this way! good luck and dont take any greif off them ;)
     
  12. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    tisk tisk tisk sarahs bloke

    you shouldn't do that should you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    well weve all done it well done

    but please dont critisize the plebs at the warehouses
    its not there fault remember when you where young
    and inexperienced

    big all
     
  13. trojan

    trojan New Member

    Some good advice has been posted here, but a few ommissions you may wish to consider. Use a router and 15x65mm cutter which will plunge sufficiently to make a final full pass. Ensure the worktop and jig are well clamped. Make the female cut first. The relationship between the centre of the router cutter and outer edge of a 32mm collett is 8.5mm, so when cutting the male end you must allow for this. Male cuts are done by turning the worktop upside down and cutting in from the post-formed edge. Take care when routing out your'e recesses for clamping bolts and do not plunge to far. You may also wish to consider strengthening your'e joints using biscuits where necessary. You must consider using a suitable (colour coded) jointing compound/silicone/adhesive to finish off the joints. This is not a simple job. Nothing looks worse than an ill fitting joint. Use old worktop to practice using the jig. Do not force the router, simply apply firm pressure and guide it. Beware of kick-back if you are to aggressive. Finally, if you have long runs of worktop, get somone to help you lift and place the work- piece into position. Good luck.
     
  14. trojan

    trojan New Member

    OOps. See my last post. delet 32mm collett and insert 32mm guide bush.
     
  15. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    tis catching!

    p.s. Clamped my worktops into place today and the joints are perfect. So thankyou to everybody who contributed good advice to me over this. Easily the scariest job I have ever undertaken, knowing all the time that one mistake could really f* things up, but pretty straightforward in the end.

    Tango
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice