Advice on hanging wall cabinet

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by charlottesmith, Dec 1, 2010.

  1. charlottesmith

    charlottesmith New Member

    We have purchased an Odder wall cabinet from Ikea:

    http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/30120572

    Of course they don't provide proper wall fittings with it. We have tried to screw it to the wall ourselves: we put the screws in and they seem really firm but as soon as we have the cupboard it seems to fall and the screws come out again. The same thing happened when we tried to hang a shelf on the same wall in an adjoining room. We are thinking of trying longer screws. The cupboard weighs about 18kg. What length screws would we need for this? Otherwise I am worried that the wall itself is not suitable for hanging this sort of thing from it.  It's a 1930s ex-council property. Sorry I know nothing about this sort of thing but is it possible that the wall itself is not suitable? Or maybe the plaster is just really thick and we need to buy longer screws? 

    Can anyone offer any advice? The cabinet will be above my daughter's bed so I am quite concerned that it is fixed correctly.

    Thanks for your advice
     
  2. timber ninja

    timber ninja Member

    well, where to start?

    are you just screwing screws into the wall? no plastic plugs? did you drill the wall 1st?

    tap the wall with your fingers. does it sound hollow or solid?

    any chance you can take a picture or two? close up pics of the holes you have in the wall.
     
  3. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    What sort of wall are you trying to fix it to?? Stud wall with plasterboard facing? Solid brick wall? lightweight block wall?
    What size and length of screws have you tried?
    As timber ninja has asked. We can't advise if we don't have enough info. ;)
     
  4. charlottesmith

    charlottesmith New Member

    Thanks for your help with this Timber Ninja and Joiner John.
    Below is a picture of the hole in the wall, I hope it's clear enough. The screws that we used were 3cm long and no 8. We did drill the wall first and we inserted plugs. The wall is solid when you tap it, my dad thinks it is brick rather than block due to the age of the house (1930s). It's definitely not plasterboard as is obviously very solid.

    Another problem we have is that some of the screws have stuck in the wall and we can't remove them even with an electric screwdriver. Any tips for removing the screws would be gratefully received!

    Thanks again
    [​IMG]
     
  5. timber ninja

    timber ninja Member

    3cm? 3?  wow.

    i would be using something more along the lines of a 60mm70mm (6cm or 7cm) maybe even more depending on the back of the cabinet/hanging bracket.

    solid wall is good, i like solid.

    is the dust your getting out when you drill red, yellow or a dark grey? is the drilling easy?

    red = brick
    yellow = brick
    dark grey = clinker block

    whats the cabinet back panel made of?

    where are you based? i might as well pop round! ;)
     
  6. timber ninja

    timber ninja Member

    hang on, how is the screw still in the wall if the cabinet isnt hanging? have they pulled through the back?
     
  7. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Are you sure its not lath and plaster?  If the wall is brick and plaster then you'll need longer and heavier gauge screws to hang a 18kg cabinet.   Would try minimum  5.0 by 65mm screws, longer if the plaster is thick and / or the cabinet has a solid back rather than thin ply,mdf etc. A good quality wallplug to suit is also essential. By the look of the photograph the holes a bit of a mess, use the right diameter drill to suit the plug size. To remove screws use a screw extractor or if you can catch the head try a pair of vice grips and wind anti clockwise.
    If this fails, buy a chest of drawers.

    Seems like your post got in just ahead of mine so some of your questions are already answered. Hope this was helpful.
     
  8. charlottesmith

    charlottesmith New Member

    Thanks for the replies. The dust was grey we think. The wall was very hard and very difficult to drill.The cabinet back panel is solid, made of the same material as the sides, so not thin ply. The instructions say the shelf is made of fibreboard. There are metal brackets that you have to insert the screw into that are attached to the shelf.

    Two of the screws fell out, and 2 got stuck in so we can't get them out.

    Thanks again
     
  9. charlottesmith

    charlottesmith New Member

    Thanks for the reply. How do I know if the plaster is thick? From looking at the hole it does appear to be thick.
     
  10. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    When your boring into the wall you'll feel when the drill bit goes through the plaster and hits the brick. Stop the drill in the hole against the brick, put your finger against the drill bit where it touches the wall, pull it out and the distance from the end of your finger to the piont of the bit is the thickness of the plaster.
     
  11. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    You need to have a screw that goes into the wall by 2 inches. So use a screw that pokes out the back of the cupboard by 2 inches(I would say 2­­½ inches - 65mm). 2½ x 8(65mm x 5mm): Drill into the wall just more than 2" with a 7mm bit, brown plug, tap the plug in to just below the surface. Make sure the head on the screw is large enough not to pull through the back of the cabinet. Wind them in.

    It looks like plaster, then brick, and if so, should give an excellent fixing.
    Your 30mm screws were hardly going into the wall at all.


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  12. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    My advice. Bearing in mind its going above your daughters bed and you and your dad are struggling a bit would be probably relocate the unit away from the bed or get someone in to put it up(maybe a handy neighbour for a bit of beer money) and watch what they use and learn, I am not saying this to take the mick but an 18kg wall unit full of things falling off the wall doesnt bear thinking about.

    If you do decide to go ahead you need a 7mm bit, brown plugs and 75mm 5 screws. angle the hole you drill downwards so that there is no danger of the screws and plugs slipping out. Drill the holes 10mm deeper than the screws, hoover  them out, put a brown plug in the hole with your fingers,  put the screw in the plug and give it a couple of turns then knock it in with a hammer til there is about 30mm left sticking out, then wind the screw in, if it keeps turning, then take the screw out and whack another brown plug in, when you have wound the screw in and it will not turn anymore you have a secure fix
     
  13. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Are you some kind of idiot? Why would you use a drywall fixing for a block or brick wall? I would like to see how much more reliable a toggle or spit fixing is in a block/brick wall. Er and you should tap a plug in my friend otherwise you arent fully fixing into the solid substrate ie the brick or block you are instead fixing partially in to the decorative finish ie the plaster. At least this forum is starting to resemble the old one with a queue of idiots waiting to dispense their pearls of wisdom.
     
  14. timber ninja

    timber ninja Member

    GB has given you a nice summary charlotte,

    i agree with the ask a friend option too 18kg wall cabinet falling = :eek:

    but don't use dry wall fixings. . . they are for  . . .dry . . . wall
     
  15. ian anderson

    ian anderson New Member

      Perfect answer!
     
  16. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    You need to work out the difference between tapping(ie knocking it in) which is what i am suggesting and taping(ie wrapping tape around it) which isnt what I am suggesting
     
  17. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Don't worry. RKS doesn't read very well


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  18. RKS

    RKS Guest

    don't take any advice from this clown mr handyandy; hes just told me on other threads you can fit upcv windows in a grade 2 listed building ha ha and patch roofing felt up from inside of a roof ha ha what a joker!!! and use plastic guttering with cast iron on a listed building ha ha

    His house is called faulty towers ha ha ha
     
  19. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    RKS You are so predictable, and STILL cannot read.

    I DID NOT SAY you can fit uPVC windows to those buildings.

    I DID NOT say you could fit plastic guttering to those buildings.

    And my house has NO problems that you may think it has.

    Now stop making it up and go away, you pathetic oik.


    That's another thread you spoiled with your obsession. Go away.


    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  20. RKS

    RKS Guest

    You was implying you could replace wooden windows with you upvc windows on a grade 2 listed building and you know it. why else put it on a blogg which is about repairs to a grade two listed building! so your telling me you didn't tell the same person to use plastic guttering on a cast iron repair too lol what a joker this guy is,

    I also see you keep replying to my post, cant help yourself what's up need the last word or something, just ignorne me lol you have over 14000 post that's a unhealthy obsession if you ask me!


    so if you didn't say any of the above what did you say, back tracking over your own Bulls%$t me thinks
     

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