Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by davejones2, Dec 8, 2018.
we only put 3 hinges on airing cupboard doors because of heat from tanks
Poor insulation perhaps.
When the hinge screws start pulling out at the top, you'll know then why 3 should have been fitted!
Well here's some pics, see what you think. As before, advice much appreciated. The right hand door is slightly ajar (no latch) for the double doors so it looks a little worse than it is .
Bit bumpy all the way down some edges like this:
Some random marks on doors I can't seem to get off:
But perhaps he can sort these out on Monday?
No, not really. Not for a 30kg door anyway, maybe for a massive fire door. I do tend to change the screws that go into the hinge on the door for longer ones of the same gauge however if it's a veneer door, as once through the lipping into the core chipboard isn't the best to hold the thread of the screw.
Hinges look miles too high,they should be 9" to the bottom.
There are three hinges on those ones; he re-used the old holes for the previous hinges.
Those edges are horrendous! Have those honestly been cut and if so what with? The splintering in places does not look like it extends all the way to to the cut edge (first picture) which in the first pic looks neater...not so much in later pictures where it could easily have been done with a rusty handsaw!
I think the lack of scribing to the floor and a couple of minor marks are the least of your worries!
The edges can be sanded, no problem there. The marks were probably on the door once bought, see if he can very gently rub them off with a lightly damp cloth.
With these, get him to sand the edges and face very gently, the uneven gap at the bottoms of the doors can be sorted by planing the left hand one to an even margin, then take a mm or two off the right hand one to keep an even gap throughout, this then will reduce the amount of splintering on show.
To be honest, apart from the splintering he doesn't look to have done too bad a job, I was expecting a lot worse from your initial description, gaps and margins look decent enough from the pics provided. Let him finish them off on Monday then see if you're happy with the finish.
Correct height for hinges is 9" up from bottom of door and 6" down from top of door.
The splintering is unacceptable by any standard.
Cool. Great news. So that kind of splintering is fixable with a bit of a light sanding?
I just couldn't see how he was possibly going to make that acceptable! Was difficult to come home to see bearing in mind he started with completely smooth pre-finished edges on the doors!
Conflicting views here!
I was utterly amazed to see he'd done that to them but he definitely hasn't finished so if they can be fixed that's fine I guess.
It's the fixability that determines what I'm going to do as if it can't be undone then I'm going to find it difficult to let him do any more work.
He will probably scribe a line across the two doors to level them, what would worry me is 16mm gap as that is what you would cut a door to clear a carpet, I would have thought a much smaller clearance preferable. I do feel you are worrying to early as clearly the guy hasn't finished yet.
They look about right to me, his skirting looks to be 4" ogee, gauging it against the bottom rail anyway, the hinge is roughly two times the skirting higher, plus a bit. Roughly 9 inches.
No, not all of it is fixable as it is now, hence why I said let him plane the bottoms of the doors slightly to get an equal gap then sand the rest. In addition, once he's applied a finish what's left of the splintering may become far less visible.
Edit, to Deleted member 11267, actually I agree with you having looked again, the bottom hinge does look higher than 9", more like 11 or so, but then if he used the original recesses, it's better than having to chop a piece in the old ones and filler over.
Apologies; I should have made it clear the splintering is on different doors to the double doors pictured, they are ok from that point of view.
The worse pic is from the cloakroom door in the hallway where I think he's already trimmed off the allowed 16mm from the bottom of the door (rather than 8mm top / bottom).
The 16mm+ doesn't matter, he could trim off 50mm if that's what's needed to get it to fit, it's the splintering and size of gap under the door that matters. Let him finish, assess the finish, post pictures on here then decide on what to do.
Ok, seems like I can let him loose on the latches etc based on feedback so far then?
I thought the trimming amount was limited by the lipping on the door which is 18mm - or is this just the sides that have that anyway? I think he's done a pretty good job of fitting that door in the frame in particular, as it is significantly bowed in parts and he's kept to a 3-4mm gap all round. Seems a shame to increase the gap at the bottom because he splintered the edge of it but hey-ho.
Huge thanks to all who've helped out; fantastic to get some expert advice given my clear lack of any knowledge whatsoever.
I'll let him finish and reassess.
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