Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by davejones2, Dec 8, 2018.
So THAT'S what the little tang is for?!
I wouldn't worry about internal doors not having their tops & bottoms varnished, 'least not unless there's some weird risk of water splashing on them or very high humidity.
Personally I do paint these areas for my own doors when fitting them, but obviously it's extra work as the finally-fettled door needs removing for this. When it comes to repainting the doors later as required, I don't bother with these bits...
The splintering, tho'... I don't have any special tools - or skills - for trimming my doors; after marking, I repeatedly run a Stanley knife along a straight edge across the 'finishing' line until it's gone a few mm deep - all 4 sides. I then hand-saw off the bulk of the excess material and plane down until the knife groove is getting exposed. I then use a belt sander...
Crude, but no splinters at all.
Jord86 - Sorry that you thought my post was about you, it certainly wasn't. I've seen a few of your posts before when looking for advice myself and you're a very helpful poster.
My reply was to do with a reply to my original post. I'm not jumping on the guys back either, and like I say we all make mistakes, I just think that's a bit poor as we all know you get break out with a variety of saws.
I agree too with you, much of joinery is about how we put things right. A kitchen in my own house I have put a screw in a place which will be seen, so now I have to pack my plinth out about 10mm more than it should be to cover it up! Stupid mistake but now I can fix it and keep the missus off my back!
Absolutely, see you girls in the morning..........................loves and kisses
(I don't mean B*e*i*)
My thoughts on this are that as everyone has said, he has used a blunt/too coarse saw to trim the door and that isn't on.
However, I think there is a distinction to be made between fitting pine doors that will be painted and fitting hardwood/veneered doors where the cut edges need to be perfect and can't be filled.
I think £65 is a good price for a door which will be painted (and can be filled if there is any splintering). But for a door like the OP's the price should be at least double that.
And not every carpenter will have the tools or skills to work to the accuracy required for hardwood/veneered doors, so I would make clear to them that I am looking for a job that is perfect to the mm and am prepared to pay for it. Those who can't will call you a fussy so and so and walk away.
The work I put in to my own pine doors is nothing special, and is just the crude way I tackle these sorts of jobs as a DIYer taking in to account my skill level and the tools I have at my disposal.
If I had the OP's veneered oak doors to do instead, I would follow the exact same procedure as I would for my solid pine doors, and it would turn out exactly the same as well - with absolutely no splinters, and the gaps following the desired paths.
I also can't see how it would take other than the same amount of time too - same measuring, same trimming, same preparation. In fact oiling/Osmoing a veneered door would, I believe, be easier and quicker than priming & painting - fewer overall coats and easier to get the desired finish as well.
Davie Jone's doors might cost many times what mine did, but I simply cannot see how the work required to fit and finish them is any greater - am I missing something? And as a long-time DIYer, I believe I'd have them fitted and finished nigh-on perfectly.
The splintering on Dave's doors - if that is indeed the finished job - is embarrassing and unacceptable in my view.
Setting the tang at a slight angle allows a few millimeters of auto adjustment.
No need for an adjustable one like the one I posted earlier which belongs to a Landrover Defender.
when i fit doors and after adjust height i alway use a marking gauge to scribe door
outrageous ... hey this guy hasn`t contributed and has the audacity to post a question ... this is absolutely taking the biscuit ,what what...what on earth is the world coming too !!!
I had the exact same problem as this guy. It seems to be next to impossible to get someone to do a decent job. Carpenter hung eight doors in one day. Some handles were straight, others were facing up and some were facing down. He cut the hinges deep into the frame and some -those at the bottom- were set at an angle. The instructions on the doors are that some should be trimmed from the top and some should be trimmed from the bottom to avoid exposing the core as this would lead to splintering, peeling of the veneer and warping. He essentially invalidated the warranty on the doors. Some of the doors hit the stop and so make a screeching sound. Other doors spring back slightly when at the closed position. One door doesn't catch when closed as the keep is not set right. One door rubs the frame and doesn't close. He told me he has hung hundreds of doors and has years of experience and that it is not unusual to trim just from the bottom. I feel the guy rushed the job and if he had taken a few days he could have done a lovely job. I would appreciate people's thoughts on this.
If the guy had taken "a few days" to hang your eight doors then he may as well jack it all in and go on jobseekers, as he'll certainly earn more money by doing that. Eight doors hung in a day is achievable to get them swinging but not with handles fitted too, not to a good standard.
Invaliding the doors warranty is unavoidable the vast majority of the time as homeowners don't want to pay any extra to have new door frames and architraves fitted so the carpenter has to fit new doors into old or original door linings via cutting and planing to get to fit.
Cutting hinges deeper or setting at slight angles will probably be to close or open up the gaps on the door margins to get it looking uniform, if it's not then it's a mistake and leads to the door catching or binding.
The springing back when closing means the door is either too close and is binding on the frame or binding on the doorstop which needs moving back slightly, the other issues are also sloppy work.
I don't fully understand your reply, as you indicate that it would take more than one day to hang the doors with handles fitted. That would be a few (two days).
I purposefully bought the doors I did as it allowed for some to be taken from the top and some from the bottom (there was then enough for the door to fit without exposing the core).
He cut the doors without a track or guide of any kind and so cut into the main part of one by about three inches.
Thanks for your feedback. I do appreciate you taking the time to respond.
A couple is two, a few is three or more I was always led to believe. You don't need a track to cut into doors as long as you are accurate enough for a good finish via whatever method you choose, if he cut into the door by three inches then he's either inexperienced, suffers with convulsions or is poor at his job. Start a new thread and post photos of the doors you have had done if you want a legitimate opinion without surmising.
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