Advice please: need to paint exterior wooden door

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by rajdsingh, Aug 4, 2021.

  1. rajdsingh

    rajdsingh New Member

    I have a wooden external door used internally for the porch (so I can remove the door).
    It is painted blue (original) and I want to change the colour.
    I don't want to use paint stripper.
    I have a power sander - can I sand it and apply a primer before painting it another colour?

    Not sure how much I need to sand if I am applying primer and I don't know what primer to use. Any advice much appreciated. IMG-20210804-WA0007.jpg
     
  2. Truckcab79

    Truckcab79 Screwfix Select

    You only need to sand it to key the surface for the next coat however to me the surface looks very rough and possibly flaking but that might just be the picture res. Personally I’d strip it. You could do that with the sander but much less mess if you use a proper liquid paint stripper. If you sand it you’ll struggle to keep the sharp edges of the moulded areas sharp. Sanding it bare will also be a lot more work than stripping.

    As for primer you don’t really need it if you’re not stripping. The original paint, if sound, has primed the timber. However the colour of primer under the topcoat affects the final finish so you might want to anyway.

    Depends what level of finish you’re after to be honest. You could probably buy a new door of similar quality for what you’ll spend on decent stripper and materials and save yourself a whole load of time. Offload the old door on Facebook so it doesn’t get wasted though. I hate chucking stuff that can be used.
     
    rajdsingh likes this.
  3. candoabitofmoststuff

    candoabitofmoststuff Screwfix Select

    Really!
    Solid wood external door... I doubt it!
    Cando
     
  4. rajdsingh

    rajdsingh New Member

    Thanks! It isn't flaking, actually held up quote well.

    I was watching videos and reading about paint strippers and they can cause a lot of fumes and strip some of the glue too so the door starts to slowly pull apart. That's what made me think twice about it.

    I'm going to sand it best I can before applying primer. I'm thinking of using light oak varnish so I think I'll need a white primer - is that right?
    Having thought about it - varnish is for bare wood so primer won't help. I'll need to find paint to go on top of primer.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2021
  5. Truckcab79

    Truckcab79 Screwfix Select

    Yea. If you want a varnish finish then definitely go for a new door. You’ll be in your grave before you strip a painted door back well enough to varnish it. So yes, rub back so it looks and feels smooth. Primer and paint.

    That said there is no issue with paint strippers. What you’re referring to I suspect if stripping them by professional dipping. Effective but can affect joints. The main issue with modern strippers is that they aren’t very strong these days. Buy a time of Nitromors these days and you’ll see what I mean. If you want to strip it then go on eBay and search for industrial paint stripper or aircraft stripper. They’ll work fine. Fumes aren’t really an issue unless you’re super-sensitive.

    If you’re sanding then I’d suggest a dark primer and dark final finish as you’ll never get those mouldings clear of old paint without losing their definition. (Although on the flip side darker paints show up more imperfections).

    Have a look at paint scrapers. The Harris one with carbide blade is decent.
     
    rajdsingh likes this.
  6. rajdsingh

    rajdsingh New Member

    Thanks again, this is really helpful. So I've decided to go with a grey satin: https://www.wilko.com/wilko-quick-dry-cupboard-furniture-mineral-stone-paint-750ml/p/0341912

    I will sand best I can and prime with https://www.wilko.com/wilko-undercoat-mid-grey-paint-750ml/p/0159086
     
  7. Truckcab79

    Truckcab79 Screwfix Select

    You’ll be fine with those. Take all the ironmongery off first. You’ll get a much better finish. I find a small 1” or so brush and a small roller the best. Brush the mouldings then immediately roller the space around it. No brush marks on the flat faces that way. Takes a bit of forethought but basically try to work fast and keep a wet edge. You don’t want to be doing a section then going back over it as it’s starts to dry, especially with the quick dry stuff.
     
    rajdsingh likes this.

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