Alternative to Dishwasher door panel

Ainslie

New Member
Hi all,

I'm looking for a bit of advice. I've recently moved into a house and was thankfully left with multiple appliances, including a fully functional old Kenwood dishwasher (KID60S10; Serial Number: 1308 S/N 01759)

Instruction manual: https://www.4kenwood.co.uk/images/mediator/90/1) instruction manual kid60s10_ib_final110426.pdf

Unfortunately the dishwasher's front wooden "aesthetic" panel has fallen off. I've tried reattaching it, but the wood around one of the fixings is damaged (see pics). Without the front panel, the door no longer stays down on it's own (which I learned the hard way, when it smacked me in the face whilst I tried and failed to reattach the panel!)

We've adjusted the tension springs as much as possible, but according to the dishwasher's manual, the door needs a weight of 3-6kg, and it seems the springs can't be adjusted to allow for no weight.

We can't seem to find a replacement door panel, so we've contemplated duct taping some weights to the door as a temporary fix.

Does anyone know where we could get a replacement door? Or have any other ideas for keeping the door safely down?

Thank you!
 

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As the dishwasher door panel no doubt matches the rest of kitchen doors, I would go with a repair myself and re-fit door. Even if you did manage to match door, likely would be some colour variation due to age between new door and exisiting doors

Either, use wooden dowels glued into screw holes, enlarge screw hole as needed to take a tight fitting dowel depending on size dowels you use, glue in, dry overnight (gorilla glue PU is excelent, the expanding stuff), cut dowel flush to back of door, 2mm pilot hole into dowel and reattach with screws

OR

Look up 'nylon hinge dowel inserts'
Sometimes used with furniture assembly or better quality kitchens where hinge screws fix to carcass and doors
Again need to drill screw holes to required size for inserts (should state on packaging), tap in inserts, screw on door. The inserts are ribbed and grip when tapped in and then expand with the screw to give a firm fixing. Some come with screws but need to check length is suitable

Tricky job aligning the door as theres no adjustment on these. Usually get a paper template with new dishwasher so you can accurately mark holes into door, in this case, 2 person job for sure, holding dishwasher door down and door panel in place and perfectly in position. If you have ratchet straps, these are useful as will hold door to door and allow some alignment. When all perfectly lined up, mark through dishwasher door for screw positions

Worth a try
 
Push some matchsticks in the hole, (Swan Vestas size) snap them off, bradawl a starter hole & screw the fitting back in.
Glue may be required with the matchsticks for a lasting fix.
 
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I'm not fully understanding the attachment system being used here.

It looks, from the photos, as if the front panel is not being held in place by anything other than the screw 'lugs' which slide down into the slots on the front of the dishwasher slots at the top. The metal plates lower down on the front panel then rest in the cut out slots on the front of the dishwasher door on either side too.

What are those four circular recessed hinge holes, left and right side, there for? They appear redundant so I'd assume they were pre-cut to allow the same panel to be used for other purposes ie. non-integrated appliances.

The PDF manual for the dishwasher shows just four screws but it clearly says: "Ensure to tighten the screws on both sides of the dishwasher door and to secure the Aesthetic Panel." on page 12. I'm guessing that later they found it needed six to make it really secure.

Are those screws still present? With those in place I cannot understand how the front can have fallen off with just that top left screw 'lug' damage. There's no obvious damage around what look like the other screws holes in the front panel.

Those six screws must be doing much of the heavy work. So I would have thought with those in place a DIY repair, as others have suggested, to the screw 'lug' area with a heavy epoxy wood filler designed for the purpose, might have enough strength to last.
 
Hi, I concur with earlier comments, in repairing the door, as there is little chance of finding a matching item.
However, could the door be swopped top-to-bottom, to allow new fitting holes to be used.
Or could the door be swopped for an existing door in the kitchen.
 
looks like this is a job for Hafele hinge
repair kit man

It’s a decor panel for dishwasher so doesn’t use cabinet concealed hinges which work very well with the above repair plates

This attaches with 6 woodscrews through the metal dishwasher door and into panel
 
Hi, I concur with earlier comments, in repairing the door, as there is little chance of finding a matching item.
However, could the door be swopped top-to-bottom, to allow new fitting holes to be used.
Or could the door be swopped for an existing door in the kitchen.

That's a brilliant idea. Obvious when you think about it!
Only downside is it probably has an external handle but maybe the OP could live with a couple holes low down or disguise/fill them.
Looks like the other side is on it's way to failing.
 
This is such an easy fix.Matchsticks etc wont work because the wood is split.The screws at the top of the door are only a fitting aid to make it easy to fit the door.There is plenty of scope to move the screws up because of the length of the slots the screws should still engage into the slot,so looking at it I guess move the screw up around 30mm.Pre drill the new hole with a pilot bit first to prevent splitting.This probably still wont hold the door for a length of time but will hold the door in place to get it lined up.When the door looks aligned you can use 4 no 40mm (double check the length)screws to screw the door on through the four fixing holes.This is what the four holes are for.
 
This is such an easy fix.Matchsticks etc wont work because the wood is split.The screws at the top of the door are only a fitting aid to make it easy to fit the door.There is plenty of scope to move the screws up because of the length of the slots the screws should still engage into the slot,so looking at it I guess move the screw up around 30mm.Pre drill the new hole with a pilot bit first to prevent splitting.This probably still wont hold the door for a length of time but will hold the door in place to get it lined up.When the door looks aligned you can use 4 no 40mm (double check the length)screws to screw the door on through the four fixing holes.This is what the four holes are for.


Another poster trying to be helpful and using their own free time and experiance to support the forum and the person asking the question ...however

As we see so often, 2 weeks + has gone by and the OP hasn't shown their face since asking the question
Despite recieving the above suggestions from several forum members, nothing to see from the OP

If you have time to initially ask the question and post it, would be good forum manners to return and say something in reply - doesn't have to be the same day, we all lead busy lives to one degree or another so can be the next day or several days later, when time permits (even if job hasn't been started / completed yet)

The OP;
Might not agree with above suggestions - fine, say so
Above suggestions may not have worked - fine, say so
You may have your own ideas now on a fix - fine, say so
The item may now be fixed after taking some advice freely offered - that's even better, great, say so

Just say something would be nice !

The above is aimed at all posters that do the same, ie, post, perhaps read the replies, perhaps not, and then dissapear
I find this both rude and odd behavour
End of sermon :mad: Enjoy the weekend one and all
 
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