anyone need help with carpet or flooing questions ? if so im your man

Discussion in 'Other Trades Talk' started by deansimmons, Oct 26, 2011.

  1. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    with over 15 years experience in flooring im the perfect person to answer any questions you may have
  2. proff

    proff New Member

    Can you play the trumpet as well?
    Good luck if you are as good as you say. ;)
  3. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Yes,,, How do you cut carpet to the correct size for a room? I can put one edge down along the skirting but when I roll the carpet out and fold the other up against the skirting,, how can I be sure I'm cutting it to the right size?? Tried before and it usually cuts it short.;)
  4. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    sure am bud
  5. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

  6. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    The best way to do this is to use a small amount of spray glue on your first edge and bolster carpet over the gripper ,then go to the next wall along and do the same (in other words always square carpet off against two walls ) then for the remaining two walls before you cut any carpet always make sure there is enough to over hang and trim of to about  a15 cm  over run . Using your bolster then lightly bolster carpet over the gripper making sure that it is seated tightly enough over the gripper( gripper should be on average about 7mm away from a wall with the arrow on the gripper pointing towards the wall ) Once you have done this start to do it all over agin with a little more force . Once this has been acomplished along a section of the wall peel the carpet away from the gripper making sure its doubled over on itself exposing a crease where its been bolstered over the gripper .Neatly trim the carpet about 2-3 mm away from the crease (making sure its on the edge side of the carpet pointing  towards the cut you made when trimming ) Then  re-lay and smooth the carpet out and re-bolster over the carpet  and over the grippe rand wollha a neatly fitted carpet fitting properly against the wall . Always do a wall in sections and not in one go as its easier to spot any small mistakes and easier to correct them. If cutting a corner always remember to cut in the opposite direction to the corner and cut with plenty of room to spare as this is tricky but with a methodical approach its pretty easy and you  will always be glad you took the time .
    The name of the game is to create a gully between the gripper and the wall and bolster into that gully and trim off so it re-seats in the same place .All gripper has a direction arrow just make sure thats pointing towards the wall and this will then do its job properly and secure the carpet

    hope this helps
  7. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    try using a stanley knife its easier
  8. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    I tried using Stanley's  knife, but he got very upset when I kept borrowing it. Who do I borrow a bolster from? (although I do have a mate called "Gripper.")

    Nah seriously. where I work, I'm not allowed to use grippers (nursing home for dementia patients) All carpets have to be glued down (and if there's one square corner in the place , I'll eat my t shirt and undies)
  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    "All gripper has a direction arrow just make sure thats pointing towards the wall and this will then do its job properly and secure the carpet "

    Another clue is the fkin death-trap-hyperdermic-needle-point tacks that protrude towards the wall guaranteed to make you bleed all over the bleedin carpet if you manage to get yer fingers even close to them!!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  10. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    haha true !
  11. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    in a case of straight to the floor do all the same practices except rather than bolster behind the gripper try and use the bolster into the gap between the skirting board and the floor this should be about 2-3 mm and sufficient to create a crease and trim as before
  12. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    then use the back of the stanley blade (not the sharp bit obviously ) tto push the cut edge under the skirting .....easy
  13. ruby1980

    ruby1980 New Member

    Yes, I have a question about making carpets look better.

    I hear you can buy a carpet rake to use after you have used a carpet cleaner. I have seen some video's on youtube for these but do they actually work? My carpet is quite "flat" in the heavy traffic areas and I want to try to get it back to it's best.

  14. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    to be honest they dont work in the long run . For a small piece of time they will change the apperance of the carpet but as soon as traffic goes across it the carpet will flattern again . All carpet when manufactured the pile has a natural direction of laying it then over a period of time will continue to flattern as your experiencing in high traffic areas .There is no magic cure for this occurance as its completely natural for the product . Carpet rakes first came out in the 60-70s when the fashion was to have shagpile carpets they didint really work then and don't relly work now either .The best way to eliminate flattening on a carpet is to use new underlay of good qualityeverytime you have a carpet replaced and regular hoovering with on upright hoover with rotating brushes but this doesnt stop the problem it only prolongs the enevatable .Wool carpets have a far better rejuvanation than polyporop/synthetic and continue to look better for longer but they can be stained easier where as polyprop carpets can be bleach cleaned ..... Yes i said bleach cleaned ...providing they are 100% polyprop .
    Hope this helps
  15. ruby1980

    ruby1980 New Member

    Thanks for the headsup. I wont bother buying one then. Instead, I'll just but a rug for the front room :)
  16. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    your welcome
  17. Mememe

    Mememe Guest

    I need help with my flooing.

    I sprinkled some on my fireplace and the flames went olive green instead of emerald green. Could I sue the manufacturers?
  18. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    try it and see
  19. leanne30

    leanne30 New Member

    What is the thickest type of underlay you can buy? I have a carpet in my house which was there when I moved in. It's a thin and worn carpet on a concrete floor and as I walk around barefooted a lot its not "spungy" enough for my liking!
  20. deansimmons

    deansimmons New Member

    It all depends on whereabouts in the home its for and what type of feel you want from the carpet and if you are thinking of underfloor heating .
    If you want a nice soft feel thats very bouncy underfoot and dont have underfloor heating a good 12mm foam pu underlay is available for approx £10-12 sqm through an independant retailer and will give you heaps of wear .

    If its a stairs/landing a 10mm version is more advisable due to natural wear and tear and flattening .

    If your thinking about underfloor heating then you unfortunately have to consider whats called a tog rating for the heating product (this is variable so read instructions for the max level allowed)then there is specific underlays designed for this purpose ,one in particular is called heatflow and is perfect for this .Remember though if underfloor heating is there you must abide to the tog ratings otherwise you will ruin the carpet ,underlay,underfloor heating and possibly even property .

    If your more traditional and prefere rubber underlays still then a good 8-10mm thick or a 11mm solid rubber versions are available.Regardless of what salesmen tell you they dont benefit morein any way than a good foam pu  and sometimes are more expensive.

    General rule of thumb is that the thicker the underlay the more any doors may need to be trimmed and adjusted, a good pu at 10mm is more than enough for the busyest of homes and is very comfortable and relatively inexpensive so thats a good starting place

    hope this helps

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