Aquapanel?

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by sinewave, Oct 13, 2009.

  1. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    I'm having a new ensuite fitted soon and would like to know the best solution for boarding and tiling the shower area.

    At the mo I have Aqupanel fitted to two sides of a 900mm corner shower tray.

    One panel has been plastered the other is yet to be fitted due to studding having to be moved out to line up with the drain. The Tray is fitted also.

    Question is, is it better to tile straight on to Aqua rather than have it plastered?

    Does the Aqua need any tanking as well if not what else does it need before tiling?


    Cheers lads! :)
     
  2. HOTDOG ø

    HOTDOG ø Active Member

    Much better without plastering. The plaster just adds another layer and reduces the weight of tiles that can be applied.
     
  3. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Thought so Hotdog! :(

    Plasteres did that whilst I was out!

    Does Aqua need any special tape etc at the corner joint?


    Obviously the joint will now have 1 panel that is plastered and one that won't be so does that make a difference?

    Ta! :)
     
  4. blueassedfly!

    blueassedfly! New Member

    sine for the cost of a couple of panels id personally rip out and replace the skimmed ones and yes you can tank them dunlop or impey or oh theres so many to choose from!!!!
     
  5. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

  6. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    What will be the disadvantage of one panel being already skimmed guys?

    As they cost £25 each I'd rather not have to rip one out just cause it's been skimmed, plus the skimmed one has been dot & dabbed where as the un-skimmed one is screwed to a stud.


    Why is there a need to tank it also?

    Surely if there is a leak or a tile/grout failiure then the water will just go with garvity and show on the ceiling below whether it's tanked or not, no?

    :)
     
  7. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

  8. HOTDOG ø

    HOTDOG ø Active Member

    Definitely remove the D&D panel before it removes itself! There in no need to tank Aquapanel - its a bit belt and braces but does no harm which is why some tilers do tank it.
     
  9. HOTDOG ø

    HOTDOG ø Active Member

  10. G Brown

    G Brown New Member

    Ohh Err! :O
     
  11. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    :O :O :O :O :O :O :O :O

    :(


    Could I mechanically fix the Aqualpanel retrospectively rather than rip it off the wall especially now the tray been fitted?

    The existing dot & dab will the only be acting as a spacer the won't it?

    Why is such a simple job so open to open to miss-interpretation and pitfalls?

    :'(
     
  12. bathstyle

    bathstyle Active Member

    I consider the use of Aquapanel in a power shower 'old school'

    It's only a matter of time before Knauf jump on the band wagon and start making a foam board that is actually waterproof, which Aquapanel is not. Marmox and Wedi make them and so now does Schluter.

    Aquapanel must be tanked, in particular and at the very least a foot or so up from the tray, a metre would be better. Use Homelux or Kerdi for the tanking, Homelux probably better as it can be bought from Topps (£35 for 5 sq/metres)

    As for the current situation, mechanically fix the D + D'd board and remove and re board the plastered A.P wall
     
  13. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Bathsyle

    The D&D plastered Aquapanel can be mechanicaly fixed so is that OK?

    The other corner of Aqua is yet to be fitted and that will be on to a stud so I'll get it left naked so to speak.


    I still can't get my head round this tanking lark on Aqua etc?

    Surely if grout etc passes water on to Aqua etc which is unaffected by water then the water will just effect the ceiling below?

    What will tanking Aqua gain if it's un-effected by water?
     
  14. bathstyle

    bathstyle Active Member

    A correctly installed Aquapanel enclosure will have all board joints and internal corners reinforced with the glass fibre tape and tile adhesive. A particular concern for water seeping through would be at the internal corner at a low level, another area of concern is the tray to Aquapanel joint.

    If, once tiled, the silicone seal against the tiles fails it can lead to a lot of water being pushed against the internal corner and the tray to aquapanel joint. I don't feel that an incredibly porous board is the best product that can be used.

    In the States, they build showers from scratch, that's the walls and floor, a wet room if you like. they actually plug off the waste on the tray and fill it up to test the walls and floor for leaks before laying a single tile.

    If a Shower is properly tanked, you could stand there with a hosepipe spraying the enclosure....before it tiled, it just wont leak, not so with Aquapanel.

    I think it should be OK to mechanically fix the D + D'd wall but it's not ideal as you really should be plugging and screwing through the dabs which could be difficult
     
  15. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    Aquapanel is there as it can absorb water/moisture and not change its physical properties (i.e. size and shape). A v small leak with AquaP will allow the panel to absorb it and then evap it. If you tank then the water has nowhere to go, so what happens??? Depends on the type of addy.....

    Leaks are always bad - but AquaP with slight seepage through grout is much better than plasterboard or even tanking. Horses for courses......

    Bottom line. Poor workmanship will always show!!

    IMHO
     
  16. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Update!

    Might have miss lead U somewhat! :O


    The boards are actualy Lafarge GTEC Aqua boards which I believe are plaster based?
     
  17. bathstyle

    bathstyle Active Member

    Tank with Homelux or kerdi, two hours max to do complete enclosure
     
  18. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    Bathstyle, since my earlier post I've been on the Larfage website and spoken to their Tech Dept.

    They say that although the board is Gypsum based rather than cement based it should not be Dot & Dab'd as they say the 'specialist' paper they cover it with plus the internal composition of the board is not designed to stick to bonding coat.

    Further if it is to be plasterd then it should be PVA'd also which has not been done either! :(

    Because the Tray has been fitted I can not rip off and battern out like they'd like me to because it would sit too far out over the Tray.

    I'm wondering if I could mechanicaly fix direct through the board which would cover that side of things but how would I get round the possiblility of the plaster not sticking properly and hence the tiles not sticking?

    You'd think that if waterproof tile adhisive will stick to it plaster would?


    Can anyone see a way round this or am I going to have to rip it all off and start again! :'(
     
  19. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

  20. bathstyle

    bathstyle Active Member

    I'll put my hands up and say I know nothing about this board. They mention that it is waterproof as it has a non paper face.

    It's difficult to know the best way forward, a belt and braces approach for me would be to bite the bullet, rip it out, re board it with P/board then tank it but this is second nature to me as I've done it many times before.
     

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