base cabinet against vertically sloping wall

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by ZahidMakda, Jan 29, 2019.

  1. ZahidMakda

    ZahidMakda New Member

    im currently fitting my kitchen. its a first time. while installing one of the cabinets, ive come accross an issue. I just wanted some advice on what's the best way around my problem:

    the base unit has been levelled using a spirit level in all directions. however, when i put the back of the base unit up against the wall, i noticed that the wall slopes away from the back of the cabinet. So the bottom part of the back of the cabinet meets with the wall, however as you go up the cabinet the wall slopes away, leaving about 15mm between the wall and the top most part of the back of the cabinet.

    hence, would it be best to modify the back of my cabinet to match the wall profile or modify the plaster on the wall and straighten it out?
  2. wiggy

    wiggy Well-Known Member

    Probably be easier to chop the wall out

    you could could scribe the back of the cabinets, much of a muchness really
  3. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    It depends on your worktop and whether you are having an upstanding or are tiling.
    If your worktop is tight for overhang you will have to bring it away from the wall at the back - not a problem if you're using an upstand as that will give you 20mm or so to play with. If you're tiling though......
    Edit:. The above assumes you don't scribe or chop out. I would scribe.
    wiggy likes this.
  4. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    Get two offcuts of 18mm board.

    Plumb and level the cabinet with one 18mm offcut between the top of the cabinet and the wall.

    Then run the other offcut down the wall with a pencil lead hard up against it.

    Cut down the line and screw the cabinet to the wall.

    The back line will follow the wall and the front edge will be plumb.

    15mm off should affect any undermounted appliances
  5. ZahidMakda

    ZahidMakda New Member

    thanks, however wouldn't this mean that the worktop which is 600mm will not overhang the cabinet door?
  6. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    No, the opposite, depending on the shape of the wall the worktop goes against you should have a decent overhang.
    goldenboy likes this.
  7. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    goldenboy likes this.
  8. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    No the very top of the cabinet should be the original width.
  9. ZahidMakda

    ZahidMakda New Member

    now i have another issue with one of the wall cabinets.
    i've hung it on the wall brackets, it's up against the wall, level, but for some reason the door is bent!
    I've even tried adjusting the screws on the hinges to make the adjustments but to no avail.
    in fact when i open this door, the door closes by itself... it seems to be off level somewhere?
  10. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    Have you checked for level and plumb? If the front edge is leaning forward that will cause it to be out.
  11. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    The joys of kitchen fitting. On paper dead easy, in reality the walls are never straight square or plumb and the trick is to work out where to hide the discrepancies so it all works. The trick is to lose the errors so no-one notices. As others have said, you need the top/front edge to be level, straight and the correct distance off the wall for the worktop depth - get this by trimming or setting off the backs to fit.

    Rather than use a spirit level, go and get a little laser level

    Now you can accurately set out all the levels and verticals and see what they look like before you start fitting.

    When fitting cabinets, set a little block on each corner with a datum line on it (or use 4 lego bricks) - you can now set your laser and adjust the cabinet legs so the top of the cabinet is perfectly flat and level in all planes.

    Cabinets will twist if you tighten them up to a twisted wall!
  12. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    I had the reverse problem on a recent kitchen - I couldn't get one of the doors to close no matter how much I adjusted everything even trying with twisting the cabinet out of square against the uneven wall.
    In desperation I decided to swap the hinges which is when I found one of the clear rubber button door buffers had become detached from its backing and hidden inside the hinge. A mixture of 'phew' and 'Grrrrr' in equal measure!
  13. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    The method i use every monday morning is as follows:

    Build the cabs, then from about 2 inches below the top of the cabs using a jigsaw, cut the gable end about 30mm all the way down to the bottom of the cabs within the service void (forget this if it's an Ikea kitchen :D)
    Start with a corner cab first, position and completely level it. Then check with a straight edge and a 1m cab shelf from the corner cab along both walls if the walls are actually at 90 degrees to each other (they very rarely are). Place and level all the other base cabs and screw them together. Using a long straight edge (a length of plinth) bridge any appliances to the next base cab and continue. Once done, fix all the base cabs to the walls.

    If the walls have loads of bows in them, this will show itself when using the plinth as a long straight edge. As long as any gaps at the back of the worktop can be hidden by upstand or tiles, you are good to go.
    Scott Green and WillyEckerslike like this.
  14. ZahidMakda

    ZahidMakda New Member

    managed to figure out the problem. basically because it's a housing for the boiler, it doesn't come with a backing, hence, the cabinet is prone to bending or going off 90 degrees. so i managed to adjust the wall fixings so that the cabinet corners were all 90 degrees. now the door is all aligned.

    thanks for all the suggestions.

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