Bathroom Plumbing a few questions

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by martynthewolf, Jul 11, 2018.

  1. martynthewolf

    martynthewolf New Member

    Afternoon all,

    Im taking on the renovation of our old bathroom and have a couple of questions.

    Looking at the picture you can see that I have lead pipes (hot/cold) curving up from under the floor. The hot water continues into the next room. After the 22mm isolation valves theres a T on each, the pipes that run to the left go back down to the kitchen and the pipes to the right fed a sink (removed) and the cold water to the other bathroom on the other side of that lath wall through that white plastic pipe. My intentions are to strip out all the lead both hot and cold water and run all new pipe, the room below this is the kitchen and I understand the main comes up in there behind a cupboard so Ill cut it there put a lead lock on and add a proper isolation valve there as currently, I have to cut all the water off outside.


    The bathroom behind that wall will be being removed once this one is re-instated, if you look at the lead pipes where you first see them exposed you can see that the right hand pipe (hot) t-s off to feed this bathroom, that pipe continues into the next bathroom. It can only feed the hot tap of the sink as we have an electric shower in there. I need to be able to cut that, I know that means no hot water to the next bathroom but meh, I'll let it drain and then just leave it open so I can pull it out when I gut the other room. Will this be a problem? I have a mixer tap in the other bathroom and know that the water from the cold could flow back down the hot. Should I just cut the hot feed to where it comes out the floor in the other bathroom and put a stop end on the bit of pipe left connected to the tap?

    The cold water feed to the next bathroom is through the white plastic pipe in the picture (top right), I intend to use Hep20 Pipe and fittings when I run all the new stuff however I dont know what brand the existing plastic pipe is that goes under into the next bathroom so when I need to join back to that pipe to reinstate the cold water what fitting should I use, would a compression isolation fitting be appropriate?

    Finally, that lead hot water pipe must be attached to a copper one somewhere near my combi boiler, when I find it am I allowed to change the lead myself or must I get a corgi person in? Same goes for the cold feed to the boiler I suspect it'll be lead?

    I hope that all makes sense, if not apologies and ill try to clarify in further comments.

    Attached Files:

  2. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Well-Known Member

    Water you can do yourself anywhere.
    The lead to copper will be under a board look for any disturbed boards.
    If the boards are smashed up/damaged they were taken up by plumbers.;)
    Remove all lead...asap.
    Use Hep stuff...and look up how to use it properly and buy a correct cutter.
    Good luck
  3. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    I don't think there will be a connector from lead to copper.

    I watched a video by Tom plum and in the olden days the welded the pipes together, don't think the practice is safe now.
  4. martynthewolf

    martynthewolf New Member

    @retiredsparks cheers, I've been researching all this hep20 stuff for the best part of a year. The stop ends in the picture are hep20, seem absolutely quality. I'll be getting a proper pex cutter when I come to laying all the new stuff. I thought I'd be allowed to mess with the water feeds to the boiler but was 100% thanks for allaying my fears :D
  5. martynthewolf

    martynthewolf New Member

    @Jitender Ha, of course, thats how they are joined under the bath. Most of that straight length above the floorboards is copper, the join from lead to copper is covered in dust in the pic but does indeed look welded in real life.
  6. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Definitely needs a think, all these pipes are doing my head in :eek:

    OK maybe have the bath the other way, so the taps are against the stud (lath and plaster wall), you should be able to use the void to fix a thermostatic shower, plus it will help keep water more contained. But just seen the window.

    Fit lead lock at incoming supply, there are different sizes available depending on the weight of pipe. Then look at getting rid of lead mains pipe altogether in the future.:rolleyes:
  7. martynthewolf

    martynthewolf New Member

    @Jitender I had a confusing day yesterday trying to figure out why my kitchen taps wouldn't work once i'd turned those isolation valves off in the bathroom o_O. Im going to run a pipe from the cold main into the the void in that wall and use one of them to feed the bath/sink/toilet. Ill add a hatch in the other room so it can be accessed in the future. I'll do something similar for the hot water. The bath is going on the left and the sink on the right. Its an odd shaped room and where the bath used to be meant the door opened onto the corner of the bath and you had to enter the room and close the door to access the sink, moving the bath to the right means its behind the door and you wont have to do an awkward dance to get to the sink.

    Edit. Or this manifold.
  8. martynthewolf

    martynthewolf New Member

    I also want to wall mount the taps for the bath when its in and have a shower head coming out from the wall with all the pipe work hidden, again with access from the other room. I have no idea what sort of fittings that set up requires though.
  9. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

  10. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Well-Known Member

    Jit...if he has lead...and copper in the system...there must be 'connections' / joins somewhere.

    You can get lead to copper "connectors".
    You can sweat lead to lead joints.
    You can solder copper to copper.

    You don't "Weld" lead
  11. dobbie

    dobbie Well-Known Member

    No,you wipe lead joints,which is a work of art when done properly.
    retiredsparks likes this.
  12. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Well-Known Member

    yep, wipe is probably more correct..........the old plumber that showed me how to do it 45 years ago....used both terms which i have never really thought about.
    Altho the first job he showed me was old lead to new copper pipe so it might be correct to say sweat in that case and wipe on a fully lead joint ?
    Bit like calling a vacuum cleaner a Hoover.
  13. ajohn

    ajohn Member

    I'd have thought that a lead to copper connector was the best option as I worked in a lead acid battery factory for a while where gas torches are often used to fuse lead parts together - usually called burning. People who did it on the shop floor were very skilled at it. I managed to acquire some skill after a lot of practice. It's very easy to melt the lot with a flame and leave a mess.

    So I'd say use a connector. They do several sizes and finding out which one to use will probably be the main problem. Can't find any on screwfix but this link may help][0]=Plumbing&search=lead&is_v=1


Share This Page