Batten and board VS Insulated PB

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by mcooper2406, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. mcooper2406

    mcooper2406 Active Member

    Morning All,

    I am converting an outhouse to a kitchen and need to insulate the walls. I was convinced I wanted to direct bond insulated plasterboard to the walls (60+12.5 to 9inch solid walls) which was going to cost around £60 per board. However I've just looked at battening with rigid insulation between and boards on top and this is coming out around £40 per board sized area. Obviously that's quite a big saving over the area I am looking to do and has distinct advantages for a kitchen such as a batten across to fit wall cupboards too.

    My questions are:

    1) are 38x63 CLS battons enough to put 60mm insulation boards between?

    2) do I need some kind of DPM and if so, where?

    3) Can I fix a long batten across the top and bottom horizontally to ensure all the others are level?

    4) Are there any advantages to insulated PB that I am missing?

    5) are 600 centers for the batten okay or would they need to be something like 300? Obviously this effects the price slightly.

    Thanks all,

  2. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    1. Yes, but you'll be losing a lot of space, especially if you're doing opposing walls, by the time you plasterboard you're losing 6" of space minimum.
    2. If the outside is rendered and sound then no, otherwise tank the walls with a slurry. The floors a different animal, if there's no DPM in there then you need to put one in via various methods, new thread in itself.
    3. If I'm battening a wall out, I find the most protruding part and either chisel it off, or fix the first batten to that and work from there. Or, fit an upright batten in each corner accurately plumb, then cut two horizontal battens between them at the top and bottom and screw to the upright battens, string a line across the horizontal battens to pack them out straight, then cut and fix vertical battens at 400/600 centres to the top and bottom batten with screws, then pack behind the verticals and fix to the brickwork.
    4. Not in my opinion, pain in the ringhole to fit, have to use plasterboard fixings to secure anything to it, granted its quicker than battening, and the anoraks with clipboards prattle on how it eliminates cold bridging through the nails and screws in the battens(seriously, it makes zero difference), but I personally don't like the stuff.
    5. 600's are fine. If you know where your kitchen wall units are going then it's wise to fit pattresses or noggins at the right height before you plasterboard over, takes some of the bum clenching away when you come to fit your kitchen.
  3. mcooper2406

    mcooper2406 Active Member

    Cheers Jord

    1) it's only one side at the other is connected to the house so has a cavity and insulation already.

    2) The outside is not rendered but there is a damp course in the walls, currently lower than the outside floor but I'm intending to dig this out. I will tank the wall anyway. Am I right in thinking it only needs tanking up to the ceiling so it's still breathable in the loft? Also do you buy taking slurry or is it an SBR cement mix?

    Thanks for all the help so far!
  4. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    Google KA tanking slurry, white or grey colour, very good stuff, think it was about thirty-forty quid a tub if I recall a couple of years ago.
  5. DIY womble

    DIY womble Well-Known Member

    Your other option is thermal and render outside
  6. mcooper2406

    mcooper2406 Active Member

    Hi all,

    Sorry to drag up an old thread but putting the floor slab in this weekend so looking to start this next week.

    I intend to tank the walls before hand, if I do so I still need a vapour barrier as part of the wall? If so, where?

    Also do I need the electrics in place on the wall before the insulation and battens and put the cable through the insulation or do the cables go on top of the insulation under the PB?

    More than likely an electrician will do all of the wiring so just asking if I need to get him in soon and push the batten and boarding back a week or two or get the battens and insulation in then get him.

    Cheers all
  7. mcooper2406

    mcooper2406 Active Member

    Sorry to re bump and old thread but could anyone help me out on the vapour barrier question?

    Also is there any need to leave a gap between the insulation and the PB or should this fully fill the cavity?

  8. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    Vapour barrier goes stapled on top of the battens, beneath the plasterboard. Yes you will still do well to install one, for the sake of £15 or so it’s not worth not doing.

    Cables on top of insulation for me, but if your insulation is fully filling the batten depth, cut a small channel in the insulation and clip the cables to this.

    No need for gaps in the batten depth wise, though as above it can be easier to run cables and pipes if the insulation is set back from the face of the battens by 15-20mm or so.
  9. mcooper2406

    mcooper2406 Active Member

    Cheers, Jord this is what I thought.

    I was unsure if cables in the insulation was acceptable though but I assume it is. If i cut a channel out of the insulation should I line it with aluminium tape to maintain the aluminium backing of the board?

    I thought as much with the vapor barrier but was unsure how to maintain it around sockets and switches but I'm thinking I can just cut the socket hole then line it withe the barrier and tape it to the rest of the barrier?

    Thanks again.
  10. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    Any holes in vapour barrier just cover with duct tape or something similar, same around cutouts.

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