Batton lamp holder.

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by RHS, Jul 1, 2020.

  1. RHS

    RHS New Member

    How would an electrician tackle this? I have a "Straight Loop-In Batten Lamp Holder BC 2.52" (8215D) in my hand. I'm interested to know the correct way to access the electric-wire connection/fixing screws. The screws are close to the plastic shell and can't be accessed directly with a screwdriver. Imagine a line along the centre (rotating axis) of any of the three terminal screws. Moving along that line away from the screw (effectively along the shaft of a screwdriver) and you meet plastic within a few mm, making a screwdriver access impossible. As far as I can see the only option is to remove the securing cross-head screw at the centre of the unit, taking much of the thing apart, exposing loose springs etc, then secure the wiring and reassemble. Seems a faff at the top of a ladder and there must surely be a better way - and I'm sure a professional electrician would not go to that trouble. Poor design or have I missed something? What would YOU do (apart from not choose that product!)? Thank you for any insight.
  2. Comlec

    Comlec Screwfix Select

    Sometimes a picture can help explain.
  3. RHS

    RHS New Member

    Yes, I thought of that. I will take a photo later.
  4. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    I guess you are replacing an existing one?
    It sounds like the installer has connected the cables, screwed the holder to the ceiling and then clipped the cables. Thus giving you no free cable to play with?

    Can you pull down an inch of cable? is there access from above?
    If not then you may be faced with extending the wires perhaps with through crimps or a suitable junction.
  5. Timbo66

    Timbo66 Active Member

    ae235.jpg This is very basic. Remove the skirt, it unscrews. Next remove the locking ring below it.
    Now the lampholder part will withdraw from the back. Screws accessible.
  6. RHS

    RHS New Member

    Got it! Yes, this is pretty basic. Ignoring the skirt, which is obviious and easy to remove, I examined the remaining structure carefully and it certainly looked like the locking ring and main body are one solid moulded part, which did seem odd, but it's a cheap product. I pushed and pulled and twisted and struggled just to be sure before my first post. Finally got the ring to move now without damage. I'm happy now! Thanks for your help in giving me confidence to use the muscle.
    The wire length is not a problem so I didn't mention it before.
    Timbo66 likes this.

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